Author Archives: allthegobro
Bedourie Bound
We are now at Bedourie having travelled the 180 or so kilometres north of Birdsville. Bedourie is the administration centre for the local Diamantina Shire, which occupies much of the south-west corner of Queensland and the flood plains of the Diamantina and Georgiana River systems. Eyre Creek flows south past Bedourie and ultimately into Lake Eyre. So the road up to Bedourie passes across many flood drainage channels, clay pans and grass lands. The road is called the Bilby Way, after the critically endangered native rabbit like animal. We didn’t see any.
Part way up we passed by a big stand of the rare Waddi Trees. Very slow growing trees dating back to the last ice age, extremely hard wood that resists burning. Some of the trees are thought to be up to a thousand years old. Also passed the ruins of the old Sydney Kidman owned Carcoory homestead. Abandoned in the early 1900s after a period of severe drought. The nearby bore flows and feeds a pond for the local cattle, water very hot.
Further along we cross Eyre Creek at the Cuttaburra Crossing where a herd of cattle were watering. This is a popular bird watching area and a few vans had taken up residence. Some pelicans were in residence upstream.
Arrived in Bedourie and managed to get the last powered van site in the Caravan Park, we were well located just next door to the artesian spar and swimming pool complex.
After a good nights sleep it was to be day of action on the golf course for Allthego and a dip in the artesian hot water ‘infinity pool’. The golf was a little challenging as there was much loose sand, thankfully a couple of the fairways were quite hard dried sand and a good run on the ball could be had for the low and frequently hitting Allthego. Allthego’s card for the 9 hole course was a modest 60, 27 over for the 33 par course. One shouldn’t bother with handicaps! A couple of bad scoring holes otherwise spoilt a reasonable effort among the sand dunes.
After this it was off for the dip in the spar and swimming pool to sooth away the aches! Homealone enjoyed the time by herself at the van beavering away on some craft.

Water hazards along the first two fairways, the neat little par 3 ‘green’ across the top is in mid ground.

Heating up in the 42 dg C artesian infinity pool, the water spills out behind Allthego into a creek.
We are now setting off after two nights here in Bedourie for a couple of days in Diamantina National Park.
Last days in Birdsville
Saturday night after the races we partied a bit down at the hotel and enjoyed the night scenes around the various stalls that were still open. The boxing tent was in full swing and there was much revelry. We even had a star politician in town for the festivities. One Pauline Hanson, she is pretty popular out here. Allthego couldn’t resist a photo-op.

Allthego with the Crack Up Sisters, these gals could really crack a stock whip. Not to be messed with.
Our time in Birdsville has come to a close. We did our Sunday morning shift on the pancakes, followed up by some stock taking, packing away and lunch. There was some time on Sunday afternoon for looking around Birdsville! We have been here a week and haven’t seen the cemetery yet. Now Allthego doesn’t mind looking through an old cemetery. A lot can be learnt in a cemetery about the towns past. Birdsville’s cemetery sits between a couple of sand dunes on the outskirts of town on the way to the caravan toilet dump point and the town dump. Allthego suspects it was there before either of these two modern conveniences. The graves certainly indicate this. Life was tough out here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There is a strong indigenous presence among the headstones, including a ‘rainmaker’. An early Inland Mission Padre died in 1929 and is buried here. He was 29 and it is thought died of a heart attack while having a swim in the river. The bare earth and sun light flickering in the scattered trees among the sand dunes was haunting. It would have been a lonely place a hundred years ago.
Back down by the Diamantina River at Pelican Point we saw flocks of birds on the Birdsville Billabong. Our grand daughter, Alyssa was wondering why Birdsville was called Birdsville. Well, we think we can confirm it is because there are lots of birds here! Or is it because a shop was built here by two blokes, Percy Bird and George Field. Hence Birdsfield, which later, because of a mailing error, became Birdsville! Who knows! Two young Corellas were hiding high in a tree above us as we gazed across the Billabong.
Down by the river the horses are stabled for the great race and it is also here where it is thought Burke & Wills might have camped on their way north back in the 1860s. There is a tree labelled the “Burke & Wills Tree” with a blaze cut into it with some barely legible markings. Better thinking suggests this is an imposter tree, the work of a later day pleasure seeker! But everybody comes here and takes a photo! Remnants of the 5 or 6 thousand campers are still to found in this area. Many will continue north in coming days for the races at Bedourie.
One of the old buildings remaining in Birdsville is the Court House. Signage indicates it is now only brought into action once a year. The Monday after the Birdsville races! No doubt to deal with matters arising from the rather strong police presence in town during the great race . Much breath analysing going on. There has also been a little unruly behaviour on the town common amongst the campers, some lads got excited and threw some gas bottles on a fire creating some big bangs in the early hours of the morning. Apart from this, things have been calm in town with not much angst being displayed.
After our drive around town and catching the last of the ‘sites’ to be seen we headed back to base for dinner and a good nights sleep before heading for Bedourie the following morning.
Birdsville’s Big Red and Race Day
One of the ‘big’ things to do in Birdsville is to drive the 35 km out to ‘Big Red’ and see the sun set. Big Red is a 40 m sand hill fronting the Simpson Desert. There is not much human settlement between this point and the Western Australian coastline. To get across the desert from here involves traversing 1100 or so sand hills. This is something Allthego is keen on doing, but not this trip. We witnessed a number of vehicles climbing up the sand cutting to the top of Big Red, whilst a challenge it did not appear to be overly difficult, would need to let the tyres down to about 18 psi. We resisted the temptation to attempt it and instead walked up and saw others try, all successful! A great view from the top. The sky was clear of cloud, so the sunset was not a spectacular show of colours and patterns as you see in the postcards. Instead, a ball of orangey/ red slowly sinking across the horizon.
We sat on the sand enjoying the view, glass of red and some cheese. As did some others. After the scramble back down we headed off in the dusk and dust back to town.

On top of Big Red basking in the setting sun with a big red in the hand and some cheese on the board.
Our day at the races arrived and we headed off in the shuttle bus to the racetrack which is about 4 km outside of town. Several thousand people were descending on the same place. It was quite a crowd and a little hard to judge how many people were there, perhaps three or four thousand. Races had also been held the day before and I suspect not everyone goes both days. Indeed there had been an exodus of vans from Birdsville before the start of the second day. But it was still a lot of people and obvious that some had been there the day before, very happy individuals!
We planted our seats not far back from the fence and the finishing post. It was a good viewing spot although we were in the sun, needed to be early to get the shady spots under the stand. It was also a good spot to observe our fellow race goers and the fashions on display. There was the usual fashions on the field competition, best dressed females, males and family groups in various categories. It seems a number of people going in these competitions take them very seriously (like in Betoota) and put in big efforts to ‘glam up’ for the occasion, even if they have to wander around amongst the stones and dust in high heels. There are others though who don’t go in the competition, but just like to hop around the place being admired by the masses.
We were also located not far from the parade ground were the horses are shown around prior to the running of each race. The strappers take them out, walk them around for all to see. Allthego noticed many astute punters wandered over to this area with their form guides and carefully pencilled their thoughts into these little books. He thought to himself that maybe Homealone should be doing this rather than relying on names and colours. But then again he saw many of these punters after the race screwing up punting tickets, giving the odd grimace or two and heading back to the bar area for more inspiration. Maybe names and colours are just as reliable after all.
Homealone was unsuccessful in picking winners here at Birdsville, did not even get a placing. Employing the same techniques of the horses name and colours, as she did in Betoota, yielded average performances and two last places. It was easy to leave after the signature event, the 1600 m Birdsville Cup. Here at Birdsville the horses run anti clockwise round the track, like in NSW. The rest of Queensland run clockwise. Why this anomaly, I don’t know.
The bus trip back to town was easy, we had a quick getaway and beat a fair bit of the crowd out of the track.
Birdsville time
We took it slowly along the road to Birdsville, hoping to nurse the water tank to an early repair. It held up well with the make shift bung getting a good dust coating to ‘cement ‘it well in place with no leaking! A closer look at the problem when we arrived in town found that it was relatively simple thing to fix. Friend Neil Imlay suggested a trip to the local hardware shop for a replacement plug, screw the remains of the old one out and put the new one in! An exact match wasn’t to be had, but the replacement was more than adequate. All fixed up in about half an hour. Bought a couple of spares for next time!
We have been here in Birdsville now for 5 nights camped behind the Old Hospital Museum with a group of others, there are about 20 of us all up. We are all volunteers on a couple of activities organised by the Uniting Church (UC) capitalising on the presence of the crowds here in Birdsville for the annual race meeting. The Old Hospital complex is the base for us and is the location of the ‘Pancake Palace’. We have another stall located in the town centre selling souvenirs and various clothing items. It is located next to Fred Brophy’s travelling boxing tent and amongst all the other spruikers in town for the races. Our aim is to raise some funds to restore parts of the hospital museum, which dates back over a hundred years and was founded by UC forerunners, as well as help fund the work of the UC in the outback.
Since arriving Homealone and Allthego, assisted by friends Neil and Dianne Imlay, have put time into both the pancakes and the souvenirs, it has been a rewarding experience as well as a bit tiring. It is starting to warm up out here in the west and yesterday we had quite a dust storm, although not like you see on the TV. It was really just a strong wind blowing dust around the place. It nevertheless drained the energy tanks.
With the races starting today (31st August) and continuing tomorrow with the main program the crowds have started to build up in town, although some have said they are not as big as last year. We are off to the races tomorrow afternoon for all the action.
We have visited a couple of the iconic attractions here in town, the old hotel and the more modern bakery. It was the Sunday roast at the pub and a cold beer. At the Bakery it was a bit of a mixed bag, egg and bacon sangers and a curried camel pie. Homealone avoided the camel pie and instead had a chunky beef pie. Both of the establishments do a roaring trade.
Now it’s off to bed to for a good sleep and an early start on the stall before race time at 1pm!
Betoota and our first road ‘drama’
We are now in Birdsville for a week or so. Leaving Windorah we set out west on a good sealed road to the turnoff to Birdsville. From this point on the road is mostly reasonable gravel with a few rough spots and loose rocky stretches. A few cattle beside the road, not much wildlife to be seen. It took us a little under three hours to make it the 240 km to Betoota.
Just short of Betoota there is a lookout, named after Deon; he was a young helicopter pilot who was killed in a crash nearby. Great views over the landscape here. We alighted for a good look around. Strolling around the van Allthego noticed some water spurting from under the van, creating a rather large wet patch. A quick look saw that we had sprung a leak, the tap on one of the water tanks had been knocked off by a stone, hence the water pouring out. For how long was the question? Allthego quickly sprung into action under the van with his index finger dutifully inserted into the tank to stem the flow. This could not be the solution though……..after some deep thought a rag was stuffed into the hole. This allowed time to search around for a piece of shrub timber to fashion into a plug to fill the gap. A very suitable piece was found and along with some plumbing and gaffer tape the flow was arrested. We had lost half our water, the remainder just enough to get us through the two nights at Betoota in the free camp beside the creek. No camping grounds or power at Betoota and limited water.
So we limped into Betoota and settled in beside the creek with a fair few other people. Betoota has been holding a race day continuously for 40 years. Nobody has lived at Betoota for 20 years. The last resident was the publican and when he died in 1997 the pub closed. It then slowly fell into disrepair and is now marked on maps as ‘ruins’. But it is being reopened and has undergone significant repairs and modernisation. It was due to reopen for the races but has run into some bureaucracy which has held things up, some suggest maliciously. Anyway we were able to have drink as a ‘social licence’ had ben obtained. You had to buy tickets that were swapped for drinks and eats. All proceeds going to charity. There were 50 or 60 people there at the time, but evidence of plenty others! The next day was race day so we retired to our abode by the creek. The plug in the water tank was holding well.
Plenty of action on race day. All up there must have been close to 750 people in attendance for the 6 race program. We grabbed our camp chairs and sat in a covered enclosure not far from the finish line. Great view of the track and the various characters coming and going from the bookie tent and bar area. Plenty of fashions of the field on display, ‘quality’ somewhat variable! All seemed to be having a good time. The local member flew in on a little plane, having come from Canberra for the day. There is dedication for you.
Homealone managed to pick two winners and a third place based on the horses names and colours. Same principles also yielded a last place. We didn’t lose any money or for that matter win any as in her usual style no bets had been placed. We departed after the fourth race to ready for our departure the next morning for Birdsville.
Haddon’s Corner
Apart from a couple of shops, the pub, Post Office and the service station there is not a lot in Windorah. A truck comes once a fortnight with fresh fruit and vegs for the 80 townsfolk. One of our fellow campers has been off on a full day mail run with the postie, 800 km out and back to various stations. The camping ground is a hive of activity, with vans coming and going as they travel east or west. The Council has recently developed another section with new amenities and camp kitchen. Not a tree or blade of grass on it and has been nick named ‘Siberia’, the older park (where we are) is a little greener and has a number of trees and small gardens.
What to do when you have a spare day in Windorah? Some go fishing. We chose to head off to Haddon’s Corner. This is the border corner of Queensland and South Australia. Cameron’s Corner to the south is three ways with NSW and Poeppel’s Corner to the north and west is also three ways with the Northern Territory.
It is about 200 km to Haddon’s Corner from Windorah, out along the Birdsville Rd and then a turnoff down the Innamincka Rd. A lot of gravel road, mostly in good condition. Just short of the Corner we had to traverse two red sand hills, the DMax did it in style. Homealone was hanging on as we went up and over with no difficulties. No one else was there! After the obligatory photos and signing off in the attendance book we had lunch and then turned around and headed back. We had left at 10.30am and arrived back at 5.30 pm.
Countryside was pretty dry, but the few cattle we saw looked in reasonable condition. One rather large dam was bone dry.
It was an interesting day out in this remote part of the land. We now head to Betoota for two nights for the races there. It will then be on to Birdsville on Sunday.
Cooper’s Creek
Leaving Eromanga the road took us through some very dry grazing land. The cattle and sheep were not looking great and the pastures were very bare and stony. Rain is certainly needed in these parts.
On our way into Windorah we stopped for the night beside Cooper’s Creek. We were all alone beside the ‘creek’ having driven down the western side to escape the crowds near the bridge. There had been some debate about whether we should stay on the eastern side or the western side, but we settled for the western side. This meant the setting sun was behind us as we settled in for the night. Very quiet place indeed. The resident pelicans paraded up and down the creek and a few other water birds gathered as the sun set.
Cooper’s Creek was named by the explorer Sturt after some chap from South Australia named Cooper. He named it a ‘creek’ rather than a ‘river’, because at the time he perceived there was little if any flow in the stream. Apparently, rivers flow and creeks don’t; at least back in the mid 19 century. In more recent times, map makers have dropped the possessive and are calling it ‘Cooper Creek’. Local Windorahians, all 80 of them, are resisting and endeavouring to preserve ‘Cooper’s Creek’.
As the sun went down Allthego scouted around for some wood, not a lot to be found unless he cut loose with the axe on some almost dead trees and roots. Fortunately, a few pieces of red river gum were found upstream by a vacant old camp spot. These were enough to fuel a nice little fire for a couple of hours and in between allow the BBQing of some pork sausages for dinner. Prior to dinner he had also set a yabbie trap in the creek. This was expected to be brim full of yabbies the next morning.
The fire slowly subsided and we retired for bed. It was really quiet, the sky crystal clear, stars brightly shining with the moon half full and waxing. There is not a lot we know about the moon.
Eromanga
We have arrived in Eromanga after the short drive from Quilpie. Pretty good road coming out from Quilpie, much of it a lane each way. After the turn off to Eromanga there were some lengthy stretches of a single lane down the middle, meaning one has to move on to the shoulders as traffic approaches. Countryside is also a little greener and fresher looking with some water beside the road. Plenty of emus running around, as well as road kill with feathers and bones spread everywhere. The emu population appears to have taken a recent battering.
Just outside Quilpie we stopped at the town opal fossicking area to try our luck among the rocks. After a bit of rock smashing Allthego struck a small rock and lo and behold there was an opal flash to be seen. Nothing to rave about, but in the pocket it went. After a few more hits we returned to the road to Eromanga.
The area around Eromanga is where the south-west oil fields start to make their appearance. Allthego was out this way 30 odd years ago when he was doing some work for one of his old clients who were part of some joint ventures looking for oil. They were successful in finding the Kenmore Oil field as well as a couple of other fields in the area. The Kenmore field is still producing today, although now owned by other parties. We passed by Kenmore Number 9 well beside the road. On the outskirts of the Eromanga township is the IOR Mini Oil Refinery which produces diesel and some other petroleum products from the oil produced from the surrounding oil fields. It was built in 1985 and was at the time also a client of Allthego, it has also now been sold to others.

Eromanga claims to be the furthest town from the sea, ironically it was underwater in the ancient Eromanga sea 100-150m years ago.
The oil fields breathed life into the then declining Eromanga township. Today it is dinosaurs bringing tourists and nomads to the town. We had an hour-long tour of the first stage of the museum/research facility which is about 3 km outside town on a bit of a hill which we suspect is above the flood line for the area. The Eromanga township has been known to have had the odd flood or two in the past. Fossils have been found in the area of titanosaurs, these are some of the largest dinosaurs known. The prize specimen is known as ‘Cooper’, a sauropod titanosaur. This is one of those 4 legged varieties, growing to about 35 m in length and 5 m tall at the shoulder, with long necks. They were herbivores and ate enormous quantities of vegetable matter. Cooper would have filled the building we were in. The palaeontologists are still in the process of prepping all the bones found, about half the skeleton. They have one of the fore limbs and one of the rear limbs done and 3-D prints have been made of these, they are about 4 m or so tall, amazing the way this has been done. There were a lot of other fossils in the place on display and we had demonstrations of the prepping process, requires patient and meticulous jig saw puzzle solver type characters for this job.

Coopers 3-D printed limbs on display. The building is about 40 metres long so this chap would have just fitted in length wise, but the head would be through the roof!

Some fossilized teeth of a sauropod, unusual find as these are normally lost. It is a set of 4 teeth, bi-cusps.
After the tour we retired to the Royal Hotel for a light lunch and then back to the van for a break before dinner.
Following two nights here in Eromanga our next stop is to be a free camp beside Cooper Creek, not far from Windorah.
Quilpie times
We are now bedding down for a third night here in Quilpie at the Channel Country Caravan Park. Have had a BBQ rump steak for dinner and sat by the big camp fire with a glass of red. Feeling very smooth, particularly after having had a plunge in the artesian spar. There has been a lot of action over the last two days and we have seen much of what there is to see in Quilpie. The walk along the Bulloo River is a real highlight for anyone with a photography bent, the river twists and turns with all sorts of trees overhanging it. You could spend hours here waiting for the light to be right! We have trotted around town checking out the Information Centre displays and memorabilia, the murals, St Finbarr’s Church with the boulder opal inlaid font, lectern and communion table. Have also tried the local butcher’s beef sausages and they were not bad at all, quite meaty with a touch of fat to ease that cooking on the Caravan Park camp kitchen BBQ.
In the last blog I mentioned we had been through here twenty odd years ago and was wondering whether much had changed. Well there has been some change! In 2017 Quilpie celebrated 100 years since its establishment in 1917 as the rail head for the line west. It never went any further despite plans for a route north to Darwin. When the rail came out here Quilpie quickly grew because it sucked population from some of the already established nearby towns. Well the train has long stopped coming west from Charleville, although there is a sometime tourist steam run from Brisbane out here for rail enthusiasts. The 100 year celebrations saw some tourist type things constructed, a railway museum, the new info centre and park area. There is also a new housing sub division (not many houses on it yet) and the caravan park has had a recent renovation. Good place to stop!
Our stop over here has coincided with a polo tournament weekend. Quilpie has been playing off against Goondiwindi and others , including a team from the Hunter Valley in NSW, over 3 days. We lingered a while watching some of the action, along with a couple of hundred polo enthusiasts from far and wide. Never seen live polo before. Prince Charles on TV has been it. We sat on the sideline, luckily the wind was blowing down the field taking the dust with it. Not a blade of grass on this pitch. Interesting time watching the action as well as the assembled human beings, quite a social scene and may be a forerunner of the Birdsville Races.
Back from the polo and lunch beside Lake Houdraman, with its resident emu population, we headed off to Baldy Top for sunset from the lookout. Bit of a scramble to the top but the view was pretty good looking out over the plains stretching for ever into the distance. Not a spectacular sunset as we didn’t have much cloud. Homealone a bit anxious up here. Allthego is known for finding high spots to go to.
We are now moving on to Eromanga, about 100 km west and a little south to check out some old dinosaur remains.
Birdsville Bound
We are off to the Birdsville Races.
Held at Birdsville of course which is in far western Queensland, near the border with South Australia and the Northern Territory. About 1600 km west of Brisbane. The races are held on the 31st August and 1st September. The population of Birdsville swells from around 120 to over 6000 for the event. The races are known as the ‘Melbourne Cup of the Outback’. More about the races when we get there!
The week before the Birdsville Races a race meeting is also held at Betoota. It is an uninhabited spot about 140 km short of Birdsville. But the ‘locals’ from far and wide put on a race day and bush dance. We are attending this event as a warm up for the main action in Birdsville. The week after the Birdsville Races, Bedourie to the north of Birdsville hold their race day. These three race events are called the ‘The Simpson Desert Racing Carnival’, in honour of said desert which lies a little further west of the towns. Rumour has it that the same horses run around at these three locations.

Morven was big in sheep, these tin cut outs are on dry, stony ground; much the way the country currently is.
As usual we got away from Brisbane a bit late, around 12.30 instead of 8.00am. This delay put us behind schedule somewhat. But we have now arrived in Quilpie, 950 km west of Brisbane. Along the way we stopped for the night in free camps at Warra (near Chinchilla) and then at Morven. We have stopped at Morven before in the excellent free camp at the town’s Recreation Grounds, best hot showers in the west! $5 a night, great spot.
The country is pretty dry and dusty, drought is taking it’s toll.

About 10 km from Charleville this big Rock Pool is pictured full of water, pretty dry at the moment.
It is about 20 years since we were last in Quilpie. We came through here on a road trip with two teenage daughters. They were not overly impressed my memory recalls. A lot may not have changed in Quilpie since then, we will find out! Allthego though is going to go for a plunge in the artesian water spar tubs in the campground, don’t recall these being here last time.
Van test run ends successfully
We are back in Brisbane after having a few nights in the rain at Yandina. A wet end to the test run in the new van. After leaving Gayndah we headed off to Yandina via Biggenden, where we stopped for lunch. Not a lot happening in Biggenden. Along the way we stopped off at Chowey Bridge on the old railway line. Built in 1905 this was the first concrete arch bridge built in Queensland. Just outside Biggenden is Mt Walsh National Park, this is a particularly rugged park with no camping facilities but a pretty day use area in the shadow of the mountain. It is a steep walk to the top, plenty of warnings about a poor track, rock faces and steep drops. Homealone wasn’t interested and Allthego didn’t want to go anyway. So we went on to Yandina instead.
Our camp site at Yandina was in a great setting down by the upper reach of the South Maroochy River. It would be good on a sunny winter’s day, very hot in summer! There are 10 sites down by the creek. As the rain fell it started to fill and run faster over the rocky base, well below the bank thankfully. I suspect that in flood time this area is swamped. We were under some big figs and our site got muddy and unpleasant in the rain. The rest of this caravan park is a bit dismal, it is given over to lots of full-time residents in very cramped areas. A good test for the van in the rain, no leaks!
We are now planning a longer trip out west to the Desert Racing Carnival in mid August, this includes the iconic Birdsville races. Other races are held at Betoota and Bedourie with the same horses I suspect going around. Back home we have unpacked and settled in. Allthego even watched the Eels go down (again) in the last minutes against St George in the NRL. Enough said!
Gayndah and all that citrus
We are now in Gayndah after having a stopover at Lawless Park, this free camp is set back from the road midway between Goomeri and Gayndah. We good spot under a nice cooling leafy tree, except it is winter and it is cold in these parts. We pulled in here around lunchtime in the hope of a fire pit, and there was! So the T-Bones were out of the freezer to defrost. Also here was a bus with a couple of Nomads on board. She was quite ill, walked with a stick and had all sorts of arthritic and bone problems, spurs every where and we heard about them all. The guy was obviously very caring. They had 3 dogs and 2 cats with them in the bus plus some birds. The bus pulled an enclosed trailer/shed with a small car on board and potted plants, tools etc (like a garage almost), on top of this lot was a boat. He ran a generator until 7.30 that night. Because of her illnesses and travelling discomfort they were selling this lot and getting a longer bus! Hmmmm.
A bit later we were joined by 2 other couples travelling together.
As the afternoon wore on Allthego chopped up some wood, or more accurately split a log portion for the fire, and around 4.30 set the fire. Allthego invited the two couples to join us for nibbles and drinks around the fire. If he hadn’t done this they would have invited themselves as it turned out. Good to be always on the front foot in these things. This lot were good talkers so Allthego didn’t have to say much and let Homealone keep the pace up. All sorts of travel tales and adventures. Entertaining for all. We let the fire subside and they disappeared for dinner, got our steaks cooked and restocked the fire for after dinner. Well, only one of the two couples emerged for this and we kept going with the chat for another hour. Got into bed eventually, exhausted!
The bus went early the next morning a bit after 7 am after leaving the engine running for 40 minutes to warm up and also wake us all up. They wouldn’t get more than 2 or 3 km to the litre, pretty expensive travelling!
Mid morning we set off for Gayndah, only about 40 km up the road and booked into the Riverview Van Park overlooking the Burnett River for a couple of nights. Nice view, comfortable but not flash! Gayndah is all about oranges and mandarins. This is the time of year when they are in season, lots of back packers around doing the picking. An ABBA tribute band was in town for the night and they belted all the great hits. Very audible from the pub on the other side of the river.
The next day we did the round trip to Mundubbera and back. Checked out a bit of the old railway line from Monto ( near the coast) to Mundubbera and saw the old ‘upsidedown’ bridge. Gayndah has the Big Orange and Mundubbera has the Big Mandarin. A number of fruit pickers were sunning themselves on the sand in front of the Big Mandarin and so spoilt a clear shot of the Mandarin, Allthego tried his best to not look too interested.
After lunch we headed back to Gayndah. Along the way drove to the top of Mt McConnell for some great views of the Burnett River and the surrounding citrus orchards. On top was a small Eco Loo facility. It’s funny how these small things attract the politicians. There is an impressive brass plate marking the opening of this loo in 2004 by Nita Cunningham the local member and also at the time the State Minister for Local Government. I wonder if she opened it literally? It still looks pretty new and in good condition after nearly 15 years, I suspect not a lot of use up here.
Back in Gayndah we settled in for the night and will head to Yandina on the coast in the morning.
Brisbane Valley Run and the new Van
Well we are on the road again in our new van after a lengthy break. It has been 12 months since we placed the order for the new van. After 5 or so years tripping around in the pop top the time had come for an upgrade. Allthego and Homealone had become some what worn, torn and a little jaded with all the ‘winding up and popping out’ in the Jayco. Not to mention the late night and 3 – 4 am morning dashes to park loos, sometimes in the wet. We had some good fun though in those trips around the country. The new van has an onboard loo and shower and a few mod cons that will make travelling a little easier as we slow up!
The order we placed in July showed up as planned, but a little late towards the end of last February. But, it was rejected by the dealer and subsequently us on quality control issues. It wasn’t up to scratch, basically shoddy construction. So a new order, for a different brand van was placed. The dealer offered us a good deal on a superior van for the same price as the original. We have ended up with more water storage, more carrying capacity and more mod cons. So, apart from the delays, we have ended up with a good setup.
The van arrived a bit over a week ago. After a few days of familiarisation and getting it set up for travelling, we headed off last Tuesday on a short running in trip up the Brisbane Valley, to the near west and north of Brisbane. Formerly a big dairying and timber getting region, it is now predominantly beef grazing, grapes, wine and as you head further north citrus growing. The valley is also the route of an old railway line running from near Ipswich 161 km north to Yarraman. The line has been pulled up and is now a walking, cycling and horse riding route for those who go for that sort of activity. Along the way some of the old railway infrastructure has been preserved, particularly stations and bridges.
Our first night’s stop was at Esk, only a short run of about 80 km to the Esk Caravan Park. Being mid-week it was pretty quiet in Esk. No dramas with the van. The next morning it was a little further north to Nanango and a stop over in the Tipperary free camp on the outskirts of town. Along the way we passed through the old timber town of Blackbutt. Its other less known claim to fame is that it is the birth place of the Australian tennis great Roy Emerson. In early 2017 a cast bronze statue of him was erected and there is a small museum documenting his origins and achievements.
In Nanango we encountered a small electrical issue with the truck-van combo. With the foot on the brake Allthego could turn off the keys, pull them out and still have the truck running. Mmmm. After a little musing it was off to a local auto electrician for investigation. After 30 minutes or so a wiring problem was isolated. Apparently, with the truck brake pedal engaged the van’s battery was giving ignition feedback to the truck… keeping it running…….foot off the brake engine stops. After a of bit of re jigging here and there all was well and we off to Kingaroy for the night. The problem is thought to have been caused because our truck wiring had been done for the van that had been rejected, whereas the replacement van had some slightly different needs. Traps for young players!
The Kingaroy Showgrounds was a pleasant stopover for one night, economical at $18 per night but somewhat spartan ambience wise!
It was cold here too, but Allthego got his first chance to empty the on board loo into the dump point the next morning before heading further north. This task was accomplished without any drama or spillage. Hoping to have a fire and cook some T-Bones at the next stop on the way north before reaching Gayndah.
Homeward bound
Our last days in Seattle saw us out on the buses to Ballard. This is quite a famous spot because it is the location of a sophisticated set of locks that connect the salt waters of Puget Sound with the fresh water of Lake Washington. Lake Washington and the streams that flow into it are prime salmon spawning grounds. The locks were constructed in the early 1900s to allow the transport of timber, minerals and agricultural production to Seattle’s seaport.
To build the locks the water level of the lakes had to be lowered by about 8 feet but still kept about 20 ft higher than the Puget Sound sea waters. This height difference together with the digging of a basin on the lake side keeps the salt water from mixing with the fresh water of the lake. Any salt water entering the lake, being denser than fresh water, sinks into the basin and is then ‘drained’ back into Puget Sound. Quite cunning, but it is a bit more complex than this and uses a few other gadgets as well. Allthego and Homealone have been on boats through quite a few fresh water locks; but these ones are different in that, because sea water is denser than fresh water, when the locks open to let you out the sea water side is a bit lower than the fresh water side and a ‘little river like’ flow of fresh water comes into the lock. It’s not just a smooth exit. Also, traditionally you need to throw lines to the top of locks when going upstream and then pull them in as the water level rises in the lock. This can be a bit of a challenge. These locks though have ‘rising’ bollards attached to the side of the lock, so you just tie up to them and they also go up the side of the lock as the water comes in, no pesky tossing of lines and the fun and games of hanging on as the water comes in. They haven’t forgotten about the salmon either as on one edge of the locks a salmon ladder has been constructed. There are over 20 steps in the ladder and a section of it has glass panels so you can view the salmon making their way up into the lake water. As well as salmon we saw a number of commercial and pleasure craft, including a kayak, transit the locks.
Back at the Seatlle Centre we were into more culture at the Chuhily Glass Gardens. Chuhily is a famous glass blower from Seattle who has a whole team of glass blowers that work on big exhibitions of blown glass. He has had exhibitions in various parts of the world. The displays are quite stunning and awe-inspiring. He specializes in garden representations, not only glass gardens but also real ones with his works as centre pieces.

Chihuly Glass , huge flower like thing in front of building holding another sculpture hanging from the roof.
The weather in Seattle has been kind to us. Warm sunny days, a bit of a change from the chill of Fairbanks a few days earlier. Our time though in the north-west has drawn to a close and we have moved south to Houston to have some days with Mitchell and Piper, before heading home to Brisbane. They are both well having seen off the hurricane. The weather in Houston is now fine, hot and humid.
It has been a great trip, we are a little weary though and looking forward to unpacking and doing the washing early next week in Brisbane.
What lies beneath
We have ventured out again on the buses to Downtown Seattle to check out the waterfront area.
Seattle is physically a relatively new city. The entire nineteenth century central business district fronting the waterfront was constructed of mostly wooden buildings and was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1889. In rebuilding the city after the fire it was decreed that all new buildings had to be made of brick or stone. The dilemma in this is that the area was really a very marshy locale and had to be ‘dried out’ and built up to support the new buildings and streets. So a plan was devised to progressively ‘fill in ‘ the streets between the new buildings, effectively raising them by one level. Walls were built alongside the buildings and at street ends and soil washed into the voids. Streets ultimately occupying the top-level. This story can get quite involved with all sorts of tales about the shops that lay beneath the streets. We traipsed off on the Underground Tour to hear all about this story. The tour took us down into the walkways between the buildings and the ‘street walls’ and you can still see the shop front windows and town infrastructure of water pipes and footpaths. All very interesting but too much detail is a little tedious for your readers Homealone reminds Allthego. So we went back to the topside for lunch. On the topside the footpaths still have these glass panels embedded in the concrete, they are the means by which light got into the underground walkways.
We had lunch in one of the waterfront cafes. Allthego had clam chowder followed by some fish n chips, Homealone had some prawn skewers. Now Allthego is rather partial to fish n chips and has been carefully weighing up the offerings he has had on this trip. First of all the standout has really been the crab cakes, all the ones he has had have been rather tasty. Light and fluffy. The crab really flavoursome. Salmon of course is also big over here. Some nice salmon dishes have been had. Baked with a maple syrup glaze particularly good. Sometimes it has been overcooked and gets a bit dry. But the standard fish n chips have generally been very marginal at best. On the menu more seems to be made of the virtues of the beer batter and tartare sauce than the fish. Invariably the fish is a piece of some nondescript Pacific or Atlantic cod. Generally solidly cooked so the batter is very golden brown and super crunchy, the fish becomes dried out and flakey, held together on your fork by the tartare sauce. The fish generally appears on the plate shaped a bit like a Christmas Bob Bon, ready to be popped open. Aussie fish n chips far superior!
The waterfront area is in the grips of redevelopment. The whole streetscape looking back from the harbour is consumed by a double-decker concrete viaduct carrying traffic through the city. There are traffic lanes underneath it as well. Looks awful, a bit like the Cahill Expressway across Sydney’s Circular Quay. The powers that be are in the process of building a pretty big tunnel underneath the viaduct. When the tunnel is finished the viaduct is to be knocked down and the waterfront redeveloped. Should be good. Being home to Microsoft and Amazon all the creative tech types will be able to sit in the parks and dream up new apps to clog our Iphones.
Pikes Market, is the towns tourist trap. Full of the typical market stalls and vendors. Interesting stop by the fish shop. All sorts of fish, crabs etc on display.
Moving on we went up the Smith Tower. The Tower was built in 1914 and at the time was the fourth tallest skyscraper in the USA. It has recently opened up its top level as a viewing platform. This tower is new competition for the Space Needle, which we didn’t ascend. The Smith Tower’s advantage over the Space Needle ( although much taller) is in having an open air viewing platform. Great views are had of the street scape and harbour. Unfortunately, snow-capped Mt Rainier which towers over Seattle could not be seen because it was obliterated by smoke haze from the wild fires.
It had been a long day in the city and we welcomed the ambience of the Inn on Queen Ann……….










































































































































