Author Archives: allthegobro

Aqaba

Well the ship seems to have got its mojo back and we can get along at the right pace. Arrived at the Aqaba pier at the appointed time of 7am, we had a quick breakfast before lining up at 8am for our excursion to Wadi Rum. Many others were heading off to Petra for the day. We had been there some years ago on a trip to Israel and Jordan, in April from memory. Much cooler then, it going to push into the high 30s this time.

Slobro anxious to get going! Seven Pillars of Wisdom in the background.
Heading towards the Seven Pillars of Wisdom.

Wadi Rum is a desert reserve surrounded by dry mountains and gorges. In the past, home to nomadic Bedouin. Now these peoples are very adept at dealing with tourists. Either expensive camel rides or Bedouin trinkets and crafts displayed in genuine Bedouin tents while you sit around sipping on a local tea or coffee. All very crafty too with various currencies and conversion rates to seal the deal.

The photo opportunity was at the top.
View of ‘Valley of the Moon’.
Here come a flock of camels or is it a scorn of camels.

Hope that helps for your next trivia quiz!

Gorge at midday, sundown would be cool!

But our 4WD tour through the desert area was quite entertaining and the scenery was great. Wadi Rum, ‘Valley of the Moon’ ,was where the Peter O’Toole movie Lawerence of Arabia was filmed. The Englishmen, T E Lawrence actually did have camps in Wadi Rum when he lead the Arab revolt against the ruling Turks in 1917.

Slobro wanted a ride on a camel, so he sat here for awhile.
3000 year old markings

There were about 30 Toyota (or similar) 4WD utes conveying us on this adventure. 6 of us squeezed onto the ute tray. The utes were in various states of repair, obviously having done this track before. Not sure that this trip would be possible in good old Aus with our rules and regulations. We whipped along at a moderate pace on the well compacted desert sands, no slipping or sliding.

Glamping camp

Dotted through the desert park were a range of glamping tent facilities, quite sophisticated places with solar power and oasis like appearances. We stopped off at one for a short break.

Time went quickly and we were back at the ship for a late lunch. After a short siesta we took the shuttle back into town for a walk around the waterfront area and to have a look at the old fort . Admirable objective but execution poor. One of the things that gets under Allthego’s skin is being harassed by taxi drivers, who speak little or very accented English and want to take you and show you things you don’t want to see for a price that is incomprehensible at the time. We got our dose of these guys, all very polite and helpful of course, just not what Allthego needed.

Lawrence of Arabia
Al-Hussain Bin Ali Mosque

So we took off ourselves from the drop off point and it seems in hindsight went in the opposite direction to which we should. Wandered around for an hour or so aimlessly, getting frustrated. Ultimately, we hailed a taxi and got in. Turns out the guy can’t speak English, shows us a picture of a cruise ship and wants to take us to the pier. Much saying ‘no no’, just want to ‘go to the water’! Finally, we stop the cab and get out. Ripped off then in change from $US to Jordanian Dinah. Allthego puts it down to more experience. Anyway, by accident we are actually back where we started!
So the wandering resumes, Homealone adamant that we are not wandering too far. The objective to buy a postcard and stamp. Stopped for a freshly squeezed OJ and minted lemon, both very good. Finally, got the postcard and also a stamp but couldn’t find anywhere to post it!

Aqaba town and hills at sunset from the rooftop of Double Tree Hilton Hotel.
View from the Double Tree Hilton.

After all this exertion Allthego convinced Homealone that the Double Tree Hilton roof top bar would be a good place to watch the sun set over Aqaba (a recommendation from on board). And it was. We finished there around 7 pm and caught the shuttle back to the ship, after posting the card off in the hotels mail box! Very convenient.

Sailed off about 10 pm to position the ship the next day for the transit of the Suez Canal.

Getting there

Dubai was the end of Stage 1 of the cruise. Stage 2 takes us to Dover in England.

Stage 2: Dubai to Dover (for London).

Leaving Dubai and sailing southwest around the coastline of the Arabian peninsular past Oman and Yemen has been a slow plod for the Coral Princess. Still suffering from some engine issues, almost rectified according to the Captain’s announcements, and facing a southwesterly wind and rough swell we have lost time on this leg. The sea calmed down as we entered the Gulf of Aden and made our approach to the narrow ‘choke’ to enter the Red Sea. Slobro has been waking each morning and asking Homealone, ‘are we there yet’.

The waters around the coastlines of Yemen and Somalia are known for modern day piracy.

Security pirate lookout

We have had an entertaining chat from the ship’s Head of Security about modern day piracy in general and the way it is being combated. There hasn’t been a significant attack in these waters for over ten years due in large measure to the patrolling of the waters by US and British naval vessels and actions taken by ships themselves. He was quite confident in the ability of our ship to ward off any pirates making an attempt. Basically our ‘freeboard’ (the railing and open deck area around the ship on Deck 7) of over 10 metres makes it difficult for any attempt at boarding. There is a range of other things to provide deterrence, including lookouts, water hoses and a sonic boom thingo that emits sound at levels humans cannot tolerate.

Pirates surrender

One of our fellow passengers asked whether the ship would rescue pirates! The Head of Security offered a strange look and said he wasn’t in favour of rescuing pirates. Much applause.

We are now well into the Red Sea making for Aqaba, it is nearly a month since we left Brisbane. Apart from a day in Singapore, half day in Colombo and two days in Dubai we have been ambling along the sea lanes in mostly smooth conditions for 24 days.

Oil slicks on the Red Sea, patches of these are quite common on the way north.
Oil slicks on the Red Sea, patches of these have been quite common on the way north.

Allthego and Homealone are looking forward to getting ashore, even Slobro is a bit edgy for landfall. For many on board though it seems days at sea are what it is all about. Someone said that it is about the journey and not just the destination, or something like that. Allthego thinks it would be great to have a destination appear soon! Well whatever pleases you, but it does show that it takes time to cruise from Australia to the edge of Europe. Sitting in the lounges in these calmer seas away from windows, one senses no movement of the ship. You wouldn’t know it is ploughing along at 15 knots pushing water out of the way. Time could be standing still, even though we have turned the clock back an hour seven times to date.

One of the Brunch cake tables

Allthego has dozed off reading a book. Supposed to be relaxing but one could get exhausted from eating! Some great food on board and the nightly entertainment excellent. The entertainers know their target market well: 50s, 60s, and 70s.

Looking forward over the bow.

Homealone is enjoying her craft and periodic trips to the laundry. It is amazing what you learn in the laundry about what is going on aboard!

Crafty paper flowers and paper bead string

‘Getting there’ has turned out to be not possible for another two guests (in addition to the earlier one in Singapore) who have sadly passed away, one it appears from over exertion on the dance floor. In the other case the wife off boarded the poor chap in Dubai and has continued the cruise, her son having joined her aboard. Practical arrangement. There has been an unconfirmed 4th death. Homealone needs to ask more questions in the craft group, or perhaps the laundry.

A consequence of the slow going is that we have lost a day and will be getting to Aqaba a day late. To catch up we are to forgo the following stop at Mykonos and make for Messina in Sicily as a substitute (albeit shorter) stop. We are not overly disappointed in this having been to Mykonos before.

Nearly there

Slobro has again just asked whether we are nearly there. YES is the answer. Tomorrow morning!


Down by the creek

The next day in Dubai we were able to get off quickly, not having to do the immigration processes. We were booked on a Red Bus trip, taking us generally down to the old historic area along Dubai Creek.

Slobro showed the way on the Red Bus.

Slobro was eager to get onto the top deck to get a good view. Now although the Red Bus has air conditioning it struggled, it was 100 degrees F and humid to boot. Our first stop was to join a Dhow cruise up and back down the Creek for an hour.

Dhow heading off with a cargo along Dubai Creek.

This experience highlighted the old problem with Red Buses. We got off the bus and had to wait half an hour for the cruise to start. Shade was at a premium. Then after the cruise we had to wait another half hour for the next Red Bus to come along. So we did an hour there. But the cruise was pleasant catching all the life along the river bank. Dhows being loaded and unloaded, people rushing around and going back and forth across the Creek in small ferries.

Back in 2007 we had spent a few days here in Dubai and the old historical district and sites were somewhat familiar to us. We had stayed in a nearby hotel. Allthego had done some research on eating establishments, looking for a place offering a traditional menu and ambience. The Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant came up with good reviews. The trick was to find it, we had the address and lo and behold the Red Bus went right past it. But we had missed the stop and had to walk back from the next stop. Again luck was on our side as we walked right past a post office and Allthego was able to get his post cards away, including one from Colombo!

Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant.
On the spot cream cheese gosleme.

We were not disappointed with the food at Al Khayma. A really good beetroot salad, some chicken shawarma samosas and lamb machboos.

Beetroot salad and chicken shawarmas

The lamb dish is a cultural favourite in this region. Also done with chicken. The lamb is slow cooked in water and a great swag of various herbs and spices. The broth is then used to cook the rice and absorb the fluid and spices. Served with the lamb.

Lamb Machboos

A bit more complex than that but that’s the guts of it, there seems to be various recipes and methods. Tastes wonderful. A big fresh orange juice and a minted lemon tea to drink. Would go back again for sure, a memorable lunch.

Dubai night sky
Dubai Wheel as we sailed away.

Jumped on the Red Bus and headed back to the ship for dinner! Dubai is an interesting place, a cultural melting pot in a traditional society. All the ‘bigness’ and razzmatazz makes it all seem a very plastic and artificial place. Nice to visit but wouldn’t want to live here. The ship sailed away later that night at around 10 pm. City all lit up against a dark sky.

At the Top

We arrived into Dubai earlier than planned having made up some time due to the aborted stop for Muscat.

Dubai Wheel from the ship as we dock.

Now one of the things you learn after doing a few cruises is that it takes longer to get off the ship than what is planned. Always a delay of some sort. No different here. Another thing you learn is that there is no way you can see everything. You have to pick and choose. Allthego and Homealone are teaching Slobro to see something that is iconic, have a new experience, engage with the locals or just sit and observe the world go round. But get on with it because the time goes quick!

Burj Khalifa

On this our first day in Dubai, Homealone is staying onboard as she is reluctant to catch the lift up the tallest building in the world. Allthego goes off to do this half day trip on his lonesome, Slobro is just a no go!
Burj Khalifa is 830 metres up. The observation deck is on level 124, 452 metres up.

Going up the lift

The lift to the deck is silent and takes about 40 seconds, as you rise the lift interior lights up with views of the urban landscape and skies. Quite spectacular, as are the views. At this time of the year the skies are quite heavy with dust and haze. Our guide tells us it’s not smog. Long distance views are compromised but the views down and over the city show the enormous amount of property development taking place.

Long way down
Another look
Top spot for a swim

Burj (Tower) Khalifa is set amidst the sprawling Dubai Mall. Most things in Dubai are big. Dubai Mall is the largest shopping mall in the world, 1300 plus outlets, Olympic size ice rink, huge aquarium, 3 story waterfall. It covers 4 floors with 12 million square feet. Simply enormous.

Dubai Mall
Harry Potter in the Dubai Mall.
Waterfall

All sorts of people wandering around, traditional Emirati and Muslim outfits to ripped jeans and bare midriffs. Quite a contrast. It is a reflection of Dubai’s libertarian turning of the cheek to breaches of Muslim practice, except when it comes to the mosques.

The Ruler’s Palace

On the way back to the ship we pass by the current Ruler’s Palace, security ever present but not too obvious. The famous Jumeirah Mosque is also passed. The guide passes on an interesting fact about mosques. On the minarets and domes there are gold spikes sticking up.

Jumeirah Mosque

The ones on the Jumeirah mosque have a circle shape on top. This means the mosque is a Sunni mosque, common in Saudi Arabia and these parts. If there is a sickle shape on top it is a Shia mosque, common on the other side of the Persian Gulf in Iraq and Iran, although there are Sunnis there as well. So that might help readers in a trivia quiz! I won’t dwell on the difference between these two, Wikipedia will help the curious.

Almost sunset

Back at the ship Allthego found that Homealone and Slobro had enjoyed the day doing the washing.

Heading for Dubai

Unfortunately, our late departure from Colombo and continuing engine issues have slowed our passage northwest across the Arabian Sea. We are currently in the Gulf of Oman making for the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf. A stop had been planned for Muscat in Oman, but this has been abandoned. We will be arriving in Dubai tomorrow, 25 June for an overnight stop, a little earlier than planned. So we will have had another four days at sea.

Allthego is getting a little edgy and needs to set foot on dry land. Homealone continues with craft activities. Good progress is being made on the Physi tartan, we might be able to get a photo up soon.

Homealone craft creation, door hanger.

The weather has remained reasonably good, although it has been mostly cloudy since leaving Colombo and the wind has picked up. Seas have been running at around 2 metres, a little rocking. Have now calmed as we are high in the Gulf. Remaining very warm but the humidity has eased as we have moved north.
Slobro has been taking the ship board life style in his stride and is wanting to share some information. Princess Cruises has a loyalty program, ‘ benefits’ accrue based on number of cruises or days cruised. Categories are Gold, Ruby, Platinum and Elite. The key ones here are Platinum (50 days) and Elite (150 days). You attain Gold after one cruise. Allthego and Homealone are Platinum. Now this cruise we are on is the first Princess world cruise from Australia since COVID, there are we believe about 1800 people aboard. The vast majority are 71 plus! It is Slobro’s first cruise ever. He is astounded that there are some 780 Elite and 420 Platinum members aboard, two thirds of all aboard. There are only 200 or so first time cruisers. Some of these Elite characters are on their third and fourth world cruises they inform us. There is one couple who will have been on the ship continuously for two years when it goes into dry dock for a refurbishment later in the year. They are transferring to another ship.

One of the benefits of being a Platinum and Elite member is we have our own little snack bar to partake of, except 1200 people can get into it! Elite people get a free laundry service, problem is there are so many that the laundry is taking 3 to 4 days to come back!

The Captain

There is also a Captains Circle Party to hear a chat from the Captain. It was at this party that we were told who is on board with the most cruise days all up. The top three. Slobro can’t recall the numbers exactly but here they are in round numbers. First, 1800 sea days and 174 cruises all up. Second, 1700 sea days and 142 cruises all up. Third, 1400 sea days and 121 cruises. Something like 5-6 years cruising, apparently more or less constantly! Slobro, 17 days and counting!

So this ship is full of people who have travelled far and often, at least on ships. Slobro is going to opine on the merits of cruising in an upcoming blog, after a little more experience aboard.

One of the highlights of this leg was the win by Queensland in the second State of Origin fixture. All aboard look forward to a clean sweep at he next outing, at least the Queenslanders! The outstanding Courier Mail newspaper sums it up well.

Ah, The ‘eyes have it’. Homealone portrait by our restaurant waiter artist. Not bad I must say !

Food and entertainment continue to be mostly excellent. One of our waiters put together a quick sketch of Homealone looking inquisitively at her plate. Certainly got the eyes!

We have had a stand up comedian who thinks he is funny. Laughs at his own jokes! Enough said.

Had an excellent hot dog today, 3 bean nacho sauce and cheddar cheese atop. Thought I was in Houston!

That hotdog

So we now find ourselves about to step ashore in Dubai. It is the end of Stage 1 of the cruise.

Colombo

We have left Colombo and are now heading north west into the Arabian Sea.

Coming into the port at Colombo
The port light, keeper’s residence.

As was predicted we arrived late into port at Colombo, around 1 pm. This screwed up our day, our tour to the tea plantation and factory had fortunately been able to be rescheduled from the morning to the afternoon. We set off around 2.00pm in our air conditioned coach, having finally got ashore.

Shoreside welcomers

Now this tour involved a return journey of 5 hours or so and the ship was leaving at 7.30pm. So a tight squeeze to say the least! We would miss seeing any of the town, another time perhaps.

Toll road south

But the main game in this port had been to get out and see life in the countryside. Which is what we did! There is a philosophy that suggests one shouldn’t get agitated about things one can’t control. Go with the flow! So a slow ship didn’t worry Slobro and neither did the bus breaking down on the way to the tea factory! Fortunately, a risk management assessment had been performed and the tour company had an empty bus following us! So we piled into that one and set off again down the Highway, a further twenty minutes had ticked by.

Buddha and temple along the way.

Turning off the dual carriage highway it was back to a narrow two lane roadway all the way to the tea factory. It seems that in the countryside the population lives largely either side of these roads. There are motor bikes, little two seater cars and small trucks everywhere. Small traditional shops among small workshops, retail stores, vehicle repair shops. An endless stream of probably subsistence level economic activity.
At one point we have a police escort, it clears oncoming traffic to allow us to speed along through the endless village. Our driver honks his horn almost continuously as he overtakes all and sundry on the narrow road.

River flats
Local temple
The main drag

We finally make it to the tea factory for a short refreshment break before a tour through the operation. Slobro really got into this and was engrossed in the processes.

Slobro ‘blending in’ with tea leaves at the start of the drying process.

The factory was quite heavily mechanised, but some processes remain very manual. A bare footed female workforce seemed to operate everything, even the bagging of final product. Interesting set up, we had about an hour on site.

Tea bagging
Slobro outlining the merits of various blends.
Fruit and veggie store

It was then back aboard the bus for the return journey along the same route. No breakdown, but the driver wasn’t mucking around. We made it back at 7.20 pm!

Colombo tulip

The ship though seemed delayed and we didn’t leave port until nearly 11pm. The Colombo tulip flashing from red to green and blue in the night sky as we sailed away.

Westward ho

Leaving Singapore our ship headed up through the Straits of Malacca, between Sumatra and the Malay Peninsular. The Straits are one of the busiest shipping channels in the world. Freight is moved from Asia down around Singapore, up the Straits, across the Indian Ocean and through the Suez Canal to Europe. Ships then come back the other way.

All this shipping has in the past been a great hunting ground for modern day pirates. Particularly, against smaller cargo vessels. Piracy has been thwarted in recent years because of greater surveillance by various authorities and is a rarity today.

Photo by Arian Fdez on Pexels.com

Nonetheless, the waters around the top of Aceh and out into the Andaman Sea still have some of these friendly folk plying their trade. For this reason the ship quickens pace to speed up the crossing on the way to Colombo. The crew do a piracy drill one morning and all the passengers are alerted to what happens in the event of action. Basically, get away from external areas, stay inside and sit down. Also, be prepared for the ship making unexpected manoeuvrings. One suspects a lot of this has to do with insurance, duty of care etc.

Westward ho

The weather has turned a bit and is clouding up, some showers as we motor along trying to leave them behind. The seas have developed a slight swell with white caps from time to time.

Crossing the bottom of the Bay of Bengal

Onboard activities continue. Slobro continues to lead our team in progressive trivia. We have slipped a little in the rankings down in the middle of the pack, 35 out of around 82. Recovery will be hard from here.

Slobro likes to share a pizza

We have also had a great show with a harmonica player, did a version of ‘What a Wonderful World’ followed by a long ABBA medley. All backed by the band, very energetic.

‘What a Wonderful World’

The ship has had some diesel generator issues, slowing our progress and we are going to be a few hours late into Colombo. Unfortunately, disrupting our plans ashore for the day. Slobro is resigned to this but trusting that the issues will be fixed and not affect things beyond Colombo.
We have now turned up the west coast of Sri Lanka and will pass Galle on the way to Colombo.

Singapore

We arrived into the cruise terminal around 7.30am after slowly moving through the bay as the sun came up over the top of a bank of cloud. Ships everywhere waiting to unload or take on cargoes, quite a maze!

Sun up coming into the dock at the Marina Bay Cruise Terminal.
Early morning skyline, Marina Bay cricket wicket dominates.

We had decided to do our own thing here in Singapore. Just wander around for the day and take in some of the local vibe. Allthego had been here twenty years or so ago on a business trip, but otherwise we have only passed through on the way in a plane going somewhere else.

Traffic takes off down Orchard Road.

After getting ashore at about 10.30 am it was into the subway for a ride up to Orchard Rd, shopping heart of the city. At least the up market end. Very busy place among the modern buildings and traffic. Some great street art along the footpaths and building forecourts.

Shoppers at the ION Centre


Managed to find the local Spotlight outlet. Not necessary to do any shopping for supples as half a suitcase of wools etc had been brought along by the crafter. Still an exciting experience for Slobro both here, and with the Jelly Babies.

The holy grail found.
Slobro and the Jelly Babies


The weather was hot and humid and one became thirsty quite quickly. We grabbed some coke and sat down in a hawker centre, Indonesian. Quickly moved on by an austere official, eaters only area. Not unlike our Aussie food courts!

Colourful old Peranakan shophouses along Emerald Hill Rd.
Emerald Hill Rd.


A little further along it was a surprise to glance up a side street and see some of the old shophouses leading up to Emerald Hill. Very colourful, mostly bars and the like now.

Lunch in Chinatown.
Slobro ain’t slow when it comes to a Tiger or two

Lunch called and we jumped onto the subway for Chinatown, a couple of stops away. Found an interesting little establishment in a backstreet mall. Enjoyed some chicken stir fry, cucumber and spring onion wraps. Also a fried pork and vegetables with rice. Washed down with some Tiger Lager.

Parliament House

After lunch it was back onto the subway for Raffles and a wander around the old colonial area. Finally, lobbed into the entrance to the Long Bar only to find a lengthy queue. It was around 3.40 and we needed to back on board by 5.30. Got to our seats eventually and enjoyed a Singapore Sling and the free peanuts. Scattered our share of shells on the floor in accordance with tradition.

Settling in at the Long Bar
Famous Raffles Singapore Sling

Raffles has recently undergone renovation and the Bar has been relocated from somewhere else. Allthego remembers it being a larger space and far more rustic.

Time caught up with us and it was back to the subway and the ship. Slobro had been a bit anxious about the time. The three of us were a little weary after 12 km of walking around.

Pollywogs and Shellbacks

On the way up to Singapore the ship crosses the equator on a line that more or less cuts Sumatra in half, we are out to sea with no land in sight. It is about 1pm when this happens and it is the signal for an old custom to commence.

5 minutes to when we cross the equator.

The old naval tradition is to initiate those on board who have not crossed the equator, the Pollywogs. King Neptune, Roman god of the water, and his Queen lead a procession along the decks to their thrones.

Neptune, at right, in the upper deck procession.

Pollywogs are subject to all sorts of acts under the gaze and authority of the King.

Pollywogs subjected to testing.

They then become Shellbacks, loyal servants of Neptune. In the old days it was fairly rugged stuff. Today, on the Coral Princess, it is mostly cream, spaghetti and other goey slippery stuff being thrown around. Some are asked to kiss dead fish. Lots of music and cheering.

All creamy
General mayhem, spaghetti throwing etc.

Allthego, Homealone and Slobro looked on from a safe distance as selected passengers were subjected to the initiation. They seemed pleased, the lady in red was popular with Slobro. Hopefully, we won’t have to go through this again when we cross back over the equator on the other side of the world because we are now all Shellbacks!

Slobro looking over the aftermath.
Trivia

Once the ceremony was over we retired for lunch and then late afternoon trivia demanded our attendance and concentration.

Komodo Island

Yesterday we made our first landfall at Komodo Island. Land of the Komodo Dragon and about 1800 people, who it is claimed live in harmony with this interesting reptile. Their houses are raised on stilts, apparently to discourage the Komodos which can grow up to 3 metres long, weigh upwards of 70 plus kgs per and live for 30 years, such is ‘harmony’. It is only in recent years that the people have been stopped from feeding the Komodos. Slobro, thought this was an interesting old trick. The people feed the Komodos and the Komodos don’t feed on the people! More about Komodos later.

Komodo Island location
Sunset from deck 15

We had made our way across the Arafura Sea from Cape York more or less dead west. Sea very calm with a light breeze and clear skies. On reaching Timor-Leste we cruised the southern coastline along past Indonesian Timor and then northwest to reach Komodo Island. The little map shows the spot, a full seven days sailing since leaving Brisbane.

Slobro has been out and about, observing what has been going on. Particularly observant at breakfast time, his asides quite perceptive. He enjoys a yogurt parfait.

Slobro is into a yogurt parfait.

We have also had some enjoyable entertainment on board in the evening, some good old time musical favourites from the 50-70s. Also a great show, ‘On the Bayou’ showcasing some New Orleans soul music.

On the Bayou stage
Erwin G Urbi tapped out Mr Bojangles

We arrived at the island early in the morning as the sun was rising over the mountains dropping straight into the sea; little slivers of land along the shoreline. An eerie landscape.

Sunrise
Komodo Village from the vessel

The main attraction here is of course the Komodo Dragon. The island and a couple of nearby islands are the only places where they are found. It is a national park and world heritage site. We were here a few years ago and went ashore then and did not see the need to do so again.
Parties go ashore for a 45 minute walk through the bush to a muddy waterhole where some of these guys hang out. They are a formidable predator. Their technique is simple and involves stalking their prey and lying in wait beside the bush tracks. They have a venomous bite and a very acute sense of smell, blood up to 8 km away. So whilst they can run up to 30 km an hour in short bursts, they also just wander around sniffing the air to find the dead prey. They eat any meat and at a sitting can consume 80% of their body weight. Eat once a month and lie around digesting it. They consume the lot: meat, bones, skin, guts leaving nothing. The park provides a ready supply of red deer and boar to amuse them and satisfy hunger.

A photo from our earlier trip to the Island, this fellow might have remembered us!

There are two guides for each group one at the front and one at the back, each have a long fork shaped stick to discourage the Komodo who might take a liking to a walker. Apparently, some years ago one walker who wandered off from a group didn’t return. Slobro was disappointed to not go ashore and have a look but agreed with Allthego’s view that you don’t have to be the fastest runner in these walking groups, just the second slowest. Slobro was not up for the test!

Komodos are not prehistoric critters like the dinosaurs. They are thought to be comparatively ‘modern’ relatives of Australia’s monitor lizards, like goannas, cut off from Australia when sea levels rose after the last ice age ( so I have read). Like other Australian mega fauna they became extinct, but survived on Komodo Island. There are about 4000 on the Indonesian islands in the National Park today. So much for Komodos, Slobro has said stop now!

Local fishermen
Islands and waterways weave all over the landscape
From the Promenade deck

During the day there is a never ending cross crossing of boats between the islands, some appear to be ferries going back and forth, others small local fishing boats and some small tourist boats. All against the backdrop of the brooding mountains and inky blue water. Quite spectacular wild country.

Leaving Komodo
Leaving Komodo

We sailed for Singapore late in the day past numerous islands and bays out into the Java Sea.

Rounding the Cape

We have now passed by our first major landmark on the journey. About 9pm last night we commenced the passage through Torres Strait and around the top of Cape York. We slowly worked our way past the group of islands that were once part of the land bridge to Papua New Guinea. Thursday, Prince of Wales and Horn Island probably the best known.

Map of our passage along upper Cape York

Tucked into the neck of Cape York is the small island that Capt Cook landed on and where he raised the Union Jack, taking possession for England of the great land mass up the east coast of which he had sailed. He named it Possession Island. Back then, the locals had a dim view of those events. Their descendants continue to harbour them today.

As the ship has sailed north from Brisbane the weather has warmed up and become more humid. Winter has been swapped for summer! We now head across the Arafura Sea towards Timor-Leste and then Komodo Island in Indonesia.

Sail away from Brisbane

Shipboard life has been fairly uneventful. Allthego has found the days quite relaxing, interspersed with some onboard intellectual pursuits, involving a daily lecture dealing with Australian maritime history. Coastline mapping, ship wrecks and the WWII naval defence of the country. Some interesting stuff, not sure to make it to all nine. Slobro, has not attended, a little dry for him.

Craft group found and in full swing

Homealone, is engrossed in Kindle books and has found a daily craft group. Then there is food to fill the day out before evening entertainment and bed.
The sea has been very calm, hardly a ripple. The coastline has been shrouded in low cloud, out to sea it has been sunny with some high puffs of cloud.
Making our way up Cape York past Cooktown the ship came closer inshore. The channel is much easier seen with markers here and there, islands and reefs become more numerous. Late in the afternoon yesterday we passed by Cape Direction and Cape Weymouth on which is Chilli Beach and Restoration Island offshore.

Restoration Rock in the foreground, the mass behind is Restoration Island and Chilli Beach runs away to the left.

We had camped on Chilli beach in our van back in 2020 (we had escaped in the middle of COVID) on a trip up Cape York. Looks different from the sea side! Restoration Island was named by William Bligh when he landed there in the whale boat on his way to Batavia, after being cast adrift by the Bounty mutineers. He and his crew were ‘restored’ by eating the plentiful oysters found there. Also, named for the anniversary of the Restoration of King Charles II to the English throne on the day he landed.

Haggerstone Island, near Cape Grenville.

Further along we passed Haggerstone and Hicks Islands. Not long afterwards the sun sank in a glowing sky.

Sunset over the Cape

It was time for dinner and the Elvis movie on the big screen out on the deck.

Off to see the world

‘Off to see the world’ is a song from one of the ‘My Little Pony’ movies by some Swedish chaps and has nothing to do with what we are going to do over the next 110 days. It just has a catchy name, a bit like ‘Off to see the Wizard of Oz’. We will be back in sunny Brisbane in mid September.

Brisbane of course

The Coral Princess is leaving Brisbane and will be taking us up the Queensland coast, through the Torres Strait to Komodo Island, where those big lizzards live, in that string of islands running down from Bali towards PNG. Then, Singapore and across the Indian Ocean to Dubai via Colombo in Sri Lanka.

Stage 1 Brisbane to Dubai

So,things will be a little quiet on the blog for the next ten days or so until we hit Singapore. The ship is one of the smallest in the Princess fleet, accomodating up to 2,000 guests. It set off on this passage from Auckland, picked up in Sydney and today us in Brisbane. So, it seems it will be mostly New Zealanders and Aussies aboard.

Slobro all ready to go

We are sharing our cabin on this journey with another guest, three to the room and it could be a little squeezy. Slobro has joined us to provide special insights on where we go and who we come across. He, may slow us down a bit in some of the onboard activities and shore excursions. This cannot be helped.

Pre cruise brunch with our Uber driver Gillian at Piggy Back.

The drive out to the port went smoothly and the boarding process all good. Only about 400 Brisbanites to board so it went quite smoothly and quickly. Thankfully, we had passed our RAT tests and had all the paperwork in order.

Coral Princess at Brisbane Cruise Port

It is a pleasant afternoon, sunny with some cloud. Low cloud out to the west on the horizon, so we may get a good sunset going past the Glasshouse Mountains. All good for the sail away at 5pm.

Bargara to Brisbane

Made it down to Bargara, on the coast out from Bundaberg, from the free camp beside the Calliope River in good time, despite a bit of a braking problem with the truck. The Big 4 at Bargara is very spacious with nice shady trees, it’s their ‘Breeze’ brand…..doesn’t quite live up to the ritzier Big 4s that have rows of huts blocking the views of mere vanners, along with jumping castles, water parks and hoards of kids running amoke. So it suits us fine, nice red cloud sunset before settling in for the night.

Sunset in our Bargara campground.

Allthego decided to drop into the local Isuzu dealer and get them to look at the brakes. Fortunately, they fitted us into their schedule, brakes got a going over and were fixed up satisfactorily to allow the journey to continue. Homealone put the parachute away, but it took up a day of our time in Bargara.

Burnett Heads coastline.

We have been around the Bundaberg region a few times now and little seems to change. Sugar cane, macadamias, tomatoes, strawberries and root vegetables. It is one of Queensland’s food bowls on rich volcanic soils. And of course it is home to the iconic Bundaberg Rum and Bundaberg Ginger Beer. Allthego is keen on the latter but the Rum is not really his scene, except for the banana and toffee infused liqueur version. Really good drizzled on a banana split!

Old Burnett Heads lighthouse, moved here when decommissioned in 1972.

A developing trend for caravan parks is to get the local food trucks to set up shop in the grounds on selected evenings. Generally, the usual sort of fast food stuff. The park here though has tied up the local South African food truck, in national colours, with some quite tasty pre and post diner nibbles. Especially, the samosas.

South African food truck at campground.
Some pre and after dinner nibbles from the food truck.

We had a short drive around the Burnett Heads area, this is where Bundaberg’s river meets the sea. An old area undergoing redevelopment, some nice houses along the sea front.

Python about to complete dinner of an unlucky possum, head first see front leg sticking out of the snake’s jaws.
Dinner complete, our python slips away to rest.

We have also had some in camp excitement with a python devouring a possum one evening next to our campsite. Could have trod on it when wandering off to the bathroom. It was not a big python, but it still cleaned the possum up quite quickly and then slipped away to digest it.

The sea here is supposed to be free of those jelly fish threats to life of more northern waters, so Allthego decided to go off and have a swim in the surf. Although they have been found further south on the inside of Fraser Island. Surf is a loose term as it was very gentle, the water lukewarm. A northerly was blowing , whipping the sea up a bit and as everyone knows brings in the blue bottles. A stray one latched onto Allthego causing some agitation.

Bluebottle engravings on a fine form.

Allthego, with the usual display of stoicism, made a quick return to camp for ice relief and some sympathy. Good as gold after an hour or two. I trust my readers will excuse the photo, just wanted it for the record! Things come in threes: brakes, snakes and blue bottles.

View from free camp about 30km north of Gympie.

We are now back in Brisbane having stopped overnight at a free camp, near Gunalda, north of Gympie. Got to get the maps out now to see where we might be off to next. We have learnt one thing though on this trip, going north in February can be a little warm. Best we reckon to wait till towards the end of March or early April when things cool off .

Clairview

Have had three nights at Clairview, succumbing to the van’s air conditioning at night to get a good sleep. Rather hot and humid here beside the sea, even with the sea breeze. Not a lot to do either, besides sitting and looking out through the trees and coconut palms watching the tide come in and out across the sand banks and also warding off the midges as the sun sets.

Clairview beach near high tide.
Clairview beach near low tide.
Incoming tide engulfs the sand bar.

Clairview overlooks a shallow bay that is home to a large population of dugongs and we had hoped to see some up close. If conditions are favourable they can sometimes be seen from the shore in pods, a bit like whales. But we didn’t see any. Have to try again some other time.

After leaving Airlie Beach we made good time down to Mackay and headed out to the coal loaders at Hay Point for a gander at all the ships lined up out to sea. Unfortunately, the lookout was closed for some reason and the view from the breakwater was not good, either out to sea or of the port facilities. We continued down the coast road to Sarina Beach. This is another of those places we stayed at on that trip 43 years ago before kids. The motel still there, looking much the same. The view is certainly the same.

Still there! Homealone is pretty sure that we stayed in the ground floor unit, far right end.
Sarina Beach foreshore outside the unit.

Nowhere for a quick late lunch though, so it was back on the road to Sarina. Pulled up there at an old milk bar type place that seemed to have every type of fast food one could want. Unfortunately, we settled for long hot chicken rolls and gravy, Homealone, had mayonnaise. Plus a serve of chips to share. No shortage of chips in these parts! Quite filling, left one with an oozie feeling in the belly which lasted all the way to Clairview and into the evening. An omelette was all that was necessary for dinner that night. Being eggs it was chicken again I suppose. The next night, chicken again! One of Allthego’s chicken and salami skewers, simple salad no chips.

Chicken and salami skewer on the Weber.
Beer garden at the Barracrab van park.

The Barracrab Caravan Park is where we are, semi sardine like along the water front but overall not too bad, there is no one between us and the sea and not many behind. A couple of vap aficionados beside us puffing away, mid late 40s should know better!

It is good to know that most victims recover.

Aside from dugongs Clairview is home to a good supply of mud and sand crabs. Barramundi are also supposed to inhabit the creeks. Hence the name of the park, Barracrab. As usual up this way at this time of year the sea can have those unpleasant jellyfish and warnings are aplenty. We didn’t see a barramundi or a crab, except on a crab sandwich at the camp bar. Rather good, lots of crab too!

View over Calliope River from the free camp.

Time to move on and we are now sitting beside the Calliope River at a free camp, about 10 km north of the Gladstone turnoff. Got here and set up around 3 pm before a vigorous thunderstorm. Now a pleasant drizzle and degrees cooler, no humidity! Why did they call this place Calliope? I don’t know. She was the Greek muse in charge of eloquence and poetry, so very fitting for a blog post!

Airlie Beach

We have made it to Airlie Beach, known as the Gateway to the Whitsundays. The Whitsundays is an area of the Great Barrier Reef dotted with islands and barely submerged reefs. The area has been inhabited by our indigenous peoples for thousands of years. It got its anglicised name from Captain Cook who cautiously navigated here on his voyage up the coastline in 1770. He came through on Whit Sunday, the 7th after Easter, and so named the area ‘Whitsundays’ (also being the feast day of Pentecost in the Christian calendar). Allthego go didn’t know that and thought he would share it with you. A little more, why ‘Whit’? Google tells me ‘Whit’ is derived from the anglo-Saxon word ‘wit’ meaning ‘understanding’. So, it was the day the disciples were filled with the wisdom of the Holy Spirit.

After leaving Cape Hillsborough we dropped into some of the small villages nestled along the coastline to the near north. Basically, they seemed like retirement spots that get a boost during holiday times. We made our way back out to the Bruce Hwy and headed north to Proserpine where the turn off to Airlie is located.

View over Airlie from the Funnell’s balcony.

In Airlie we are staying four nights with the Funnells, old friends from Brisbane and Gold Coast days, now residing in the sunny tropics on the side of a steep hill overlooking the town and islands. Nice spot indeed. The van is off by itself in a storage yard at Cannonvale on the Airlie outskirts. Solar keeping the fridge running along ok.

Pool on the Airlie Beach waterfront


At The Northerlies, a resort type place that is located where one of the Pirates in the Caribbean movies was shot. The resort has used some of the movie set we believe.

We have enjoyed our time here, wandering through the town and some drives into the surrounding countryside. Very green place, sugar cane everywhere. Great views from the top of the steep hills out over the coastline to the islands. Gives one an appreciation of how they are all so close together separated by narrow channels.

Whitsunday Islands from hills near Shute Harbour
Cedar Creek Falls

While out we stopped for a light lunch at Whitsunday Gold, a local coffee plantation. Also home to a great variety of caged birds of all sorts, they are nicely caged and cared for of course. Nearby the Proserpine Museum has interesting memorabilia from the old days. Good variety of stuff and not a mental overload to get through!

Whitsunday Gold observer.
A hand turned wooden Biro at 3.85 m and Bowl with a diameter of 2.6 m, highlights of the Proserpine Woodturners Group. The Biro was a former world record holder.

Sailing is big up here, yachts and boats of all shapes and sizes. Mark F has joined a local sailing group and is out Wednesday afternoons for the local sailing club race. We had a nice meal back at the clubhouse among the after race celebrations.

Marina at Sorrento after the rain storm
Baked chicken breast with avocado and hollandaise sauce at the Sailing Club.

Cruise ships are well and truly back, three were in port on different days, emptying their passengers into the streets and excursions to the reef. Pacific Encounter, the ship we took to Melbourne for the 2022 cup, among them. It is now adorned with a big water slide and walkway that overhangs the side. Not into ships with water slides!

Princess Explorer in the Bay, this is the ship we went down to Melbourne on for the 2022 Cup.
From the Funnell’s balcony, after a couple of hours this cleared away.

The vagaries of the coastal weather have also been experienced. Sun to cloud to cloud bursts and more extensive rainy white washouts of the view from the unit balcony.

The time has come to move on though and commence the return trip south back to Brisbane. Picked the van up from storage all ok and are headed for Clairview and maybe some dugong sightings.