Yesterday we made our first landfall at Komodo Island. Land of the Komodo Dragon and about 1800 people, who it is claimed live in harmony with this interesting reptile. Their houses are raised on stilts, apparently to discourage the Komodos which can grow up to 3 metres long, weigh upwards of 70 plus kgs per and live for 30 years, such is ‘harmony’. It is only in recent years that the people have been stopped from feeding the Komodos. Slobro, thought this was an interesting old trick. The people feed the Komodos and the Komodos don’t feed on the people! More about Komodos later.

We had made our way across the Arafura Sea from Cape York more or less dead west. Sea very calm with a light breeze and clear skies. On reaching Timor-Leste we cruised the southern coastline along past Indonesian Timor and then northwest to reach Komodo Island. The little map shows the spot, a full seven days sailing since leaving Brisbane.

Slobro has been out and about, observing what has been going on. Particularly observant at breakfast time, his asides quite perceptive. He enjoys a yogurt parfait.

We have also had some enjoyable entertainment on board in the evening, some good old time musical favourites from the 50-70s. Also a great show, ‘On the Bayou’ showcasing some New Orleans soul music.

We arrived at the island early in the morning as the sun was rising over the mountains dropping straight into the sea; little slivers of land along the shoreline. An eerie landscape.

The main attraction here is of course the Komodo Dragon. The island and a couple of nearby islands are the only places where they are found. It is a national park and world heritage site. We were here a few years ago and went ashore then and did not see the need to do so again.
Parties go ashore for a 45 minute walk through the bush to a muddy waterhole where some of these guys hang out. They are a formidable predator. Their technique is simple and involves stalking their prey and lying in wait beside the bush tracks. They have a venomous bite and a very acute sense of smell, blood up to 8 km away. So whilst they can run up to 30 km an hour in short bursts, they also just wander around sniffing the air to find the dead prey. They eat any meat and at a sitting can consume 80% of their body weight. Eat once a month and lie around digesting it. They consume the lot: meat, bones, skin, guts leaving nothing. The park provides a ready supply of red deer and boar to amuse them and satisfy hunger.

There are two guides for each group one at the front and one at the back, each have a long fork shaped stick to discourage the Komodo who might take a liking to a walker. Apparently, some years ago one walker who wandered off from a group didn’t return. Slobro was disappointed to not go ashore and have a look but agreed with Allthego’s view that you don’t have to be the fastest runner in these walking groups, just the second slowest. Slobro was not up for the test!

Komodos are not prehistoric critters like the dinosaurs. They are thought to be comparatively ‘modern’ relatives of Australia’s monitor lizards, like goannas, cut off from Australia when sea levels rose after the last ice age ( so I have read). Like other Australian mega fauna they became extinct, but survived on Komodo Island. There are about 4000 on the Indonesian islands in the National Park today. So much for Komodos, Slobro has said stop now!

During the day there is a never ending cross crossing of boats between the islands, some appear to be ferries going back and forth, others small local fishing boats and some small tourist boats. All against the backdrop of the brooding mountains and inky blue water. Quite spectacular wild country.

We sailed for Singapore late in the day past numerous islands and bays out into the Java Sea.