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How to gain half an hour

By crossing the border from Queensland into the Northern Territory a little to the west of Camooweal…….

Route map so far

Here is a map of the journey so far, Brisbane to Camooweal. This route is a little over 2,000 km.

We left Winton at 8am, quite early for us. It was a long drive up the last section of the Landsborough Highway to Cloncurry. The road took us past Kynuna and McKinlay, home to the Walkabout Hotel of Crocodile Dundee fame.

In Cloncurry we made a brief stop to take in the sights from the local lookout which also has a new mural (at least for us). Quite impressive artwork reflective of the indigenous connections with the land.

Water tower from the road below.
Parrot endemic around Cloncurry.

Corella Dam was to be our free camp spot for the night, about 60km on from Cloncurry. The dam was the water supply for the now deserted Mary Kathleen township, the site of the former uranium mine.

Whilst Corella was a good place for a stopover, the bugs were out in force. As well as a few flies.

Campsite at Corella dam free camp.
Corella dam
Corella dam

It seems all the wet weather and residual dampness we have had has brought forth a breeding frenzy in these parts. Lengthy grasses also contribute. Russell was attacked by the little blighters, like a seaside midge onslaught.

Good to get on the road to Mt Isa and Camooweal the next morning.

Camooweal seems to be really battling at the moment, the post office/mini supermarket closed at the end of March. Apart from the hotel and service station no other commerce is here. One wonders how the residents will get their supplies, long drives to Mt Isa and maybe the servo will step up with daily needs like milk, bread etc. The pub might hope for the locals to live on beer alone.

Camooweal Drovers exhibition.

The Camooweal caves are one of the attractions.It is a dusty 16 km drive to the National Park site. An interesting deep hole in the ground and a pleasant billabong are at the end of the road. We made it back to the van park late in the afternoon after a short look see.

Dusty rusty track to the caves and waterhole.
Little Nowranie Cave
Nowranie Waterhole

We leave in the morning on the next stage of the trip. Crossing into the NT , gaining that half hour. We intend to have the night at the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse, midway across the Barkly Hwy, before heading up the Stuart Hwy to Katherine over the following three days.

Winton

We have now been at Winton for two nights after the drive from Barcaldine and Longreach. The countryside is amazing. So green after all the rain.

Pasture between Barcaldine and Longreach
War memorial after Anzac Day at Longreach.

The road to Winton for the most part follows the old train line from Longreach to Winton. I think the line is now only used for freight.

Longreach to Winton rail line, only used for freight these days, as far as I can tell. People transfer by bus from Lonreach
B Triple heading for Winton

Winton continues to amaze with its energy to do stuff. Some great attractions here and things to do and see in the outback. We have been here before, but it was nearly 13 years ago. Doesn’t seem like it was that long ago. Back then we charged around seeing all the stuff to be seen. This time we have been a bit more focussed.

‘Banjo’ Patterson outside the Waltzing Matilda Centre in Winton.

The Waltzing Matilda Centre had burnt down and new one constructed. Must say it is pretty good for a two hour look see, very focussed on seeing the Winton region and its ‘treasures’ through the lens of Banjo Patterson’s ‘Waltzing Matilda’. Very 2025 tech too in the displays.

The Royal outdoor cinema.
Waiting for the movie

That evening we experienced the charms of the Royal Theatre, a volunteer run open air picture theatre, deck chairs and all! We saw a 1935 John Wayne classic (his 33rd movie), ‘Cold Vengeance’ aka ‘Dawn Rider’. Entertaining 58 minute Western gun fighting, horse riding and fist fighting movie, very 1930s movie making! The Royal operates 5 (or is it 4!) nights a week during the winter touring season with all sorts of old classics and present day attractions.

Couple of dinosaurs

Spent most of day two at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum about 20km out of town. Since our visit way back when the Museum and its environs have come a long way. The eleven kilometre road in has been sealed and new buildings constructed.

A big sauropod and smaller sauropod.
Another dinosaur

A dinosaur trackway all 52 metres of it is under one roof, a major resource effort. The story behind getting this display from its original creek bed location on a cattle property to the Museum is extraordinary. Great determination and of course some Government grant support helps.

View from the ‘jump up’ (like a mesa plateau) where the museum is located.

Dinosaur Canyon has a number of displays of the animals ‘out in the wild’, bronze statues of course. Truly impressive place to visit and tour around.

Tatts Hotel for dinner
Pork chop was excellent!

Back in town we enjoyed dinner at the Tatts Hotel, good feed.

Sunset at Winton

We next head for a free camp, a bit west of Cloncurry, hopefully will be there mid late afternoon for a rest!

Heading north west

We are on a trip to the north west of Western Australia. The Kimberleys. The Gibb River Rd beckons.
It is going to take a little while in the van, some three and a half months for the journey there and back home. We are first covering some well worn ground heading north west from Brisbane through Roma, Barcaldine, Longreach and Winton.

As with all our road trips there is an early playing of Willie Nelson’s ‘On the road again’. Homealone, is not a huge fan and it took till Dalby before it blasted out of the music box!

Judds Lagoon

First stop after leaving home, some two hours after the planned time, was at Judds Lagoon, a free camp about 60 km from Roma. A nice little spot off the main drag, very quiet with only three others there.
Next morning was Anzac Day. Judds Lagoon is near Yuleba, its main claim to fame is as a staging post for Cobb & Co back in the 1800s. Not a lot happens in these parts these days. The locals today are very focussed on Anzac Day, everything’s (and thats not much) is shut. This presented our first little travelling drama. The need for a diesel top up at the local service station. We had 60km to go to get to Roma, but the range guidance on the speedo was 70km. Rather tight. Problem was the servo didn’t open till 2pm, Anzac Day activities! Allthego set off nursing the truck and van along the road to Roma. Thankfully, we made it there and topped up with 74.6 litres, capacity is 76 litres. 1.4 litres to spare, which accounts for the difference between 60km to Roma and 70 km range. Judgement!

Anzac Day at Amby
Pasture lands near Morven

From Roma we made our way through Mitchell and Morven for a night stop over at the Augathella free camp, actually $10. Good facilities here and a number of vans were lined up along the river front. Augathella’s main attraction in the past has been its giant meat ant and a few murals.

Augathella water tower

It now has a freshly painted water tower, quite impressive design. We also stocked up on some country killed beef at the old butcher shop. Been in the same family for five generations and is supplied by the family’s local property. The butcher is also the local killer and meat inspector so they have it all tied up nicely.

The old Smiley novels were based on stories about a boy growing up in Augathella. Chips Rafferty, the star of the movie ‘Smiley’ was a young shearer in the area.
Frazer’s butchery since 1918.

On the road again we headed for Barcaldine with a short stop at Tambo for morning tea followed by lunch the other side of Blackall.

Tambo lake and picnic area

Grasslands are very green and the cattle are up to their thighs in it munching away. Should be a good winter season for the graziers.

Not much has changed in Barcaldine, one of the local motels has set up a small van park with seven grassy drive through powered sites. Only two of us in for the night. Seems to be new for this season, great spot and a block back from the main street.

Shakespeare Hotel

The old Shakespeare Hotel has been done up and reopened. We had dinner there celebrating the Bards recent 528th birthday. Bit empty, seemed to be only two of us there for the night. The owner told us times were tough. The locals don’t go out much any more, the football was on tonight as well. Very dependant on tourists and she was eagerly awaiting the winter travellers.

Shakespeare Hotel’s staircase and upper rooms, looks great.

We had dinner on the upstairs balcony overlooking the Tree of Knowledge, the structure made from old timbers supplied by an old colleague some years back.

Tree of Knowledge from the verandah

We are now setting off for Winton with a bright sunny blue sky. Must stop at the petrol station for a top up!

Keukenhof Gardens

We have had an afternoon stopover at Ijmuiden, the port for Amsterdam. I think the stop here has something to do with getting the arrival time into London right after the three sea days coming down the Norwegian coast from Tromso, well over 1200 km. We are due at Tilbury Docks about 6 am to disembark.

Although, it is the very start of Spring we took the option of doing an excursion to the Keukenhof Gardens, about an hours bus trip from the port. We were in Amsterdam a few years ago, but it was in Autumn and the Gardens were not open.

The Gardens showcase the Netherlands love affair with the tulip. There were numerous indoor displays to appreciate.

The grounds were just starting to bloom and many of the beds were just about to burst into colourful displays. The weather was kind, some sun and pale blue sky at times. At least the snow and sleet had gone!

The bus got us back to the ship in time for the sail away across the English Channel to London.

Great London weather!

We are disembarking at Tilbury Docks, up the Thames River and about an hour training into the City.

Tromso

Returning from Paeskatun the Viking Vela set off from Alta at midnight thereabouts for Tromso. We collapsed into bed around 1am after a nice warm shower, followed by a couple of sandwiches and pastries left for us in our room by a steward (much appreciated).

It was going to take the night to sail to Tromso through the Inland Passage between the two cities. Tromso has about 70,000 people and regards itself as the big brother of Alta.

Along the fjord

It was about this time though that the weather gods decided to influence things and we arrived in Tromso much later than planned at around 12.30pm. The morning excursions were called off, fortunately our 2pm town tour was ok. The weather was sort of terrible, if you like snow and sleet then it was great!

From the ship’s balcony.
From ship’s balcony.

Tromso is on an island and the bus took us around the town and some of the highlights buildings wise. A statue of Amundsen, a favourite of the people here, looks over a snow covered park.

Amundsen

Our first major stop was the local University’s planetarium where the by now obligatory Northern Lights presentation takes place. This one was pretty good with the tremendous videos played across the high domed ceiling. It is unlikely that we will see the real thing given the weather conditions forecast. But that is the luck of the draw in these parts!

The Planetarium

Moving on from here the bus entered a tunnel under the fjord and popped up on the mainland. Tromso is spreading out! On this side is the Arctic Cathedral, a modern triangular construction that overlooks the fjord. A bit of blue sky!

Arctic Cathedral
Inside the Cathedral

It has a spectacular stained glass window. It was added after the initial construction of the Cathedral to help disperse sunlight spilling into the Cathedral that unintentionally silhouetted the priest, who couldn’t tell whether the congregation were asleep or not.

Back on board the bus we returned to the ship. Here we learned that the itinerary was to change and we would be lurking in Tromso for another night and consequentially having to miss the planned stop at Narvik. This was all in the cause of getting a head start on incoming nasty weather from the north sea.

One of the old wooden churches.
Hot dog stand.

Next morning the weather was no better and we went out for a short stroll around town. Many of the roads and footpaths are heated and are free from snow, plenty of slush around though to get into footwear. Heaped up are small icy in parts ‘snow drifts’ one has to navigate around. Many people wear slip on/off spikes to avoid tumbles. There are numerous arctic memorabilia joints, all with very similar products and prices.

Heated roadway and footpaths.
Running through the snow

Norway seems to be a proudly expensive place no matter where you go. Largely powered by hydro electricity it has a large take up of electric vehicles, buses, trucks etc. and promotes its green credentials. Ironically, the largess (health, education, public transport) in social services support for the locals is funded by a very large Sovereign wealth fund built from the proceeds from the sale (to the rest of the world) of abundant oil and gas found in the North Sea!

Marina berths
View over the fjord

The planned sail away from Tromso was brought forward to early in the morning. The sail out along the fjord was quite smooth before we headed out into open ocean. We were to now have three clear sea days sailing south to Amsterdam. As we sailed south the seas did indeed get up a little. A swell of 3-4 metres had us rocking and rolling a little with some snow and sleet flurries. The ‘sicky bags’ appeared in the lifts, didn’t see any in use!

The Tromso weather had not been to order but nonetheless it had been a great stopover in snow country! Brought back memories for Allthego from many moons ago skiing in Australia’s alps down Perisher way!

Alta

The search for the Northern Lights now starts in earnest. But the weather outlook doesn’t look good.

Alta is 400km north of the Arctic Circle and 2200 km short of the North Pole. There are 20,000 or so people living here and it is the largest city north of the Arctic Circle.

In contrast Tasmania is 5,400km north of the South Pole and there is nothing except penguins, seals and whales etc between there and the Pole. A few scientists and the like huddle in expedition accommodation during the year.

We were due to arrive around midday, but fortunately we were three hours early and the sun was out. Some blue sky as well. So we headed ashore for a wander. Not a lot seems to happen in Alta tourist wise. The tourist bureau has some town maps and an array of souvenirs, Allthego picks up the usual couple of postcards and an Alta stamp to go on them! Bit different to the usual stamp.

Cheer leaders dancing it out ahead of the races.

We happen to stumble onto the start of day two of the annual dog sled races. Day before was the big race, 1600 km. Day twos’ races are shorter, one of 600km and the other 400km (these distances are from recall may not be exact).

Ice house

People line the race way start, seems to be a very popular event! Bit of dancing, cheerleader type stuff to introduce the races.

Dog sled race video

As the morning went on the clouds began to come in, there was a threat of snow overnight. We headed back to the ship for a late lunch and ready ourselves for our own dog sledding experience up in the hills in the late afternoon. This was really super stuff, we were broken into three groups that went off for 40 minutes or so sledding along behind teams of 8 dogs, fortunately we had a dedicated musher.

Homealone with a puppy!
Allthego with a puppy, don’t get any ideas Tito!

Back and forth along some tracks through a lightly treed valley beside a river, curiously a golf course in Summer! The dogs were really special, very sociable and excited to be pulling the sleds.

Allthego at rest in the sled, ready to roll. Homealone followed on the sled behind.
Video of Allthego travelling the Arctic forest.
Getting the dogs ready.
Homealone’s lead dogs.

Would do it again. We finished up at dusk, about 7pm. Quite cold and the snow had started to blow around.

Next day we took in a short tour around the town and visited the local museum, focussed particularly on some old rock carvings/engravings dating back for 2,000 to 7,000 years. Pre viking times. Little is known about who did them and where the people ultimately went.

Alta Cathedral
Plaques representing the twelve disciples.

Later the Alta Cathedral called, a Lutheran church, which has a focus on engaging with visitors. A really good video was shown on the Northern Lights, some great photography.

Snowy roads and scenes.
Some more snowy roads to navigate.

Back at the ship we had dinner before leaving for Paeskatun at 8pm. This was probably the last throw of the dice for seeing the Northern Lights. Paeskatun is up in the mountains behind Alta and is famous for its slate….. best slate in the world some say. But this time we hope to see the lights, not the slate.

View near Alta.

It’s cold up on the mountain, sleet is interrupted by snow and the skies remain clouded. Little chance of seeing any lights. Instead we huddle in some huts and hear tales from the past about slate and the lights. Have a couple of hotdogs and coffee while we wait. A local Sami chap visits for a look and brings a reindeer, poor animal seems to have no interest in amusing the onlookers!

The night drew to an end with more sleet and snow and no lights, all a little disappointed.

Reindeer at Paeskatun.

Back to the ship for a midnight sail away for Tromso.

Bergen to Alta

We left Bergen around 4.30pm and were due to arrive in Alta sometime before noon in three days. It’s more like three nights and two days cruising time. Depending upon the exact route it is 900-1000 km. The Captain has chosen to seek the open sea earlier than first planned. The seas are calm and we can make good time, we will join the Inside Passage further north.

Map of cruise along Norway coast.

The previous cruise north by the Viking Vela had to abort at Trondheim and head back because of storms and rough seas in the Norwegian Sea. We had encountered the VV in port at Flam and had a brief chat with some passengers that were disappointed in the call made, but appreciative of the focus on safety.

The weather along the way was quite good, but rather chilly. Some sunny patches but plenty of snow flurries.

First lot of Northern Lights.

Late on the first evening we had our first Northern Lights sighting. A brief moment in time! We have had the call a couple of other times, but in the early hours. We have arose from slumber and joined some ‘masses’ of rugged up fellow passengers. In our case no sighting, either too late or they disappeared on us before sighting (I suppose that is too late, but not our problem!).

The Arctic Circle island in the foreground at circa 6am.

A highlight was passing Vikingen Island through which the Arctic Circle passes. Even if it was about 6am at the time. Interestingly, the Arctic Circle is moving very slowly north and since the island was marked as ‘the spot’ back in the past the Arctic Circle is now about a kilometre further north (a stat Allthego is keen to check on!). It is not so much the geographical Circle but the magnetic north pole that is moving around, about 14 metres a year. This is not a new phenomena or a by product of global warming or cooling whatever. I think the above is an ok summary, obviously a bit more complex.

The Crooner.
Blue Nose action, you get Blue Toes first.

At this time there is also the celebration of the ‘Order of the Blue Nose’, passengers have a plunge in the pool spa that has been topped up with bags of ice. An interesting display of flesh took the plunge. Survival did not appear to be of concern. Allthego was tempted, but it was very cold!! Gave it a miss this time.

Along Inside Passage.
More Inside Passage.

Not long after the Blue Nose event we returned to the Inside Passage route, have made good time and we were going to be a few hours early in Alta.

Showing our way 3 is Tromso, 2 is Alta and 4 is Narvak.
Along the Alta fjord.
More Alta fjord.

Some great scenery along the way. Allthego had expected it to be a bit less winterish as we were into Spring. But apparently, winter can go on through March. There has been less snow this year and some late rains.

The Sun deck.

So we have snow and ice on the sun deck and across our balcony, temperatures are sub zero and barely getting to 5 or 6 during the day. Still it is ‘nice’ and a bit sunny from time to time, no need for sunblock.

At Dock in Alta.

We get into Alta a bit after 9 am, sun and blue sky greet us. Looks to be a good day ahead!

Bergen

Bergen is Norway’s second largest city after Oslo, the greater Bergen area has about 400,000 people. Just on 300,000 of them live in or around the city, clinging to the shore land and a little way up the mountainside. The old town was founded around 1100, so it is not an old Viking town, post dating the viking era.

Haakons Hall circa 1240
Rosenkrants tower circa 1270 you

The town had its origins in 1070 when it was founded by King Olav. He was the son of the Viking leader who was defeated by the Anglo Saxons at Stamford Bridge in 1066. This was just a few months before the Normans (who are of old viking stock) invaded England and defeated the English at the Battle of Hastings. Enough English history!

St Mary’s Church circa 1140

St Mary’s is the oldest building in Bergen, formally a Catholic Church it is now Lutheran. The Anglicans are let in these days, probably pay a premium.

From the 1400s it became an important trade centre for dried cod.The trade being controlled by German merchants for several centuries.

We are here for three days before leaving on the cruise aboard Viking Vela up the Norway coast as far as Alta. We plan to take it easy.

One of the prominent features of Bergen is its wooden houses. The wooden houses and fire we were told is one of the prime architectural drivers of the city. There have been a lot of fires over the last thousand years. Many destroying large swathes of the city scape, by necessity buildings were replaced by more wooden ones. Not a lot of stone available for house building. Only the wealthy and important could do it in stone.

Bryggen UNESCO world heritage site.

We had several strolls around the old port area. Lots of cobbled footpaths and roads. The residents though don’t seem to have garbage bins like us. The streets are narrow and large dumpster type bins are dropped here and there for people to throw their refuse in. It makes for a rather messy neighbourhood.

Bergen back street.
Bergen back streets.

The Fish Market is a must stop off point to see the great array of fresh local product available to the residents. Some less than appetising items were on display, plenty of crabs of all shapes and sizes.

Fish market luncheon snacks.
Some tasty items at the fish markets.
Fish market.

Bergen is also famous for its weather and is the rainiest city in Europe. Two in every three days have rain, we have been lucky as two of our three days have been sunny.

Funicular to top of Mt Floyen.

Allthego has been waiting for some clear skies to ride the Funicular up Mt Floyen, one of the seven mountains that lie behind Bergen.

View over Bergen port from Mt Floyen
One of a few trolls in the forest.

Some great views from the top. Homealone did not join him, a rather steep ascent in glass windowed cars allowed great views as we ascended and descended the track.

Cruising out under the suspension bridge on our way north.

We had a night in Bergen aboard the Viking Vela before leaving the port late in the day and headed up the coast. It was a bit chilly, but not as cold as it would be in Alta.

Fram to Bergen from Flam

Back in Oslo we had spent some time in the Fram Museum. Allthego just recalled after having been advised by Homealone that ‘Fram’ means ‘forward’. So, we are now ‘Fram to Bergen from Flam’. Has a nice ring to it!

We spent the next day in Flam holed up somewhat in our room. Weather not great, scatty rain and chilly. In between we had a wander in the town shops, not that there are many! The train museum was closed, it is being ‘reimagined’ and restocked for the upcoming busy season. Nice little bakery provided lunch for us. We enjoyed dinner in the Flamsbrygga artisan brewery.

Brewery fireplace at Flam.

Little disappointed that we couldn’t get out and about the near parts of the Flam Valley for a closer look.

‘Future of the Fjords’

Next morning we had to be ready at 9.30am for the next stage of the journey. This being a ferry ride along the fjord to Gudvagen, which is up around a corner into another branch of the Sognefjord, the Naeroyfjord.

Flam village as we leave on the ferry.

This was a wonderful two hour trip on an electric ferry (‘Future of the Fjords’) that holds 400 people, we probably had only 150 for this trip. Plenty of room and silent, except when side thrusters went on. Big racket! The map below shows the trip from Flam.

From Flam to Gudvagen by ferry.
Along the ‘A’ fjord.
Further down the ‘A’ fjord.

The vessel is fairly advanced and a full battery charge will take it 40km. Not far, just far enough for us! Might need to do some more work on the distance for a full charge!

Waterfall near Gudvagen
Near Gudvagen

After disembarking at Gudvagen we only had a few minutes to board the bus that would take us up the mountains to Voss. A rather steep drive in places and a couple of long tunnels.

On the road to Voss we followed the course of the Vosser River (got to check that name) that feeds a couple of large lakes. The river is quite unpredictable, in parts very narrow and filled with rapids in other areas it widens out and is quite peaceful. After passing through the lakes and Voss it flows down into a fjord.

Voss station

At Voss we have an hour to fill in before the train to Bergen arrives. The Voss gondola leaves from the station and it was tempting to take a ride up….. Homealone reluctant (probably a good idea) so we sat and waited for the train. Along it came, no booked seats this time. We did get a good window seat though, the river continued to be the main attraction. The train got along at a fast pace, so photos didn’t work. Eventually, we pulled into Bergen Railway Station.

Bergen Station.

This is where the fun started. Allthego had the hotels name but no idea where it was, the one place we didn’t have directions for of course. And it was drizzling a bit too. After a bit of aimless wandering directions were sought. This happened several times and each time we seemed to get a little closer to the target, albeit going backwards and forwards a bit. At last a young lady suggested we get a tram for a couple of blocks and then catch a bus for another few blocks and lo we would be there! But alas no, the right brand of hotel but not our particular one, which we were told we had passed a block or so back but up the hill in another street. So it was!

We are now in Bergen for three nights before the cruise sets sail.

Oslo to Bergen

We are now starting the overland trip from Oslo to Bergen. Along the way we are stopping for two nights at Flam to break the trip up. Many do it all in a day as the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ journey. Generally, you might do that in the summer months when the days are longer. But everyone does it then and there are a lot of people looking for seats on trains, ferries and buses. Bit of a mad rush too we think.

Train lines from Oslo to Bergen, we went via Flam involving other transport.

Of course one of the advantages of ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ is that someone buys all the train, bus and ferry tickets for you! But at a very big premium price. Allthego is a bit stubborn when it comes to price. So he hit the internet before leaving Aus and mapped out the itinerary and bought the tickets. Got the dates and times all lined up ok as well. Big saving, can recommend it. Of course we are at the end of winter and it was all pretty easy with availability. Maybe different in summer.

Along the Oslo to Myrdal line.

At the appointed hour of 6.25am our train from Oslo departed the station. As planned we were aboard!Fortunately, it was only a 10 min stroll from the hotel to the platform with our overnight bags. The main bags had been taken direct to Bergen by a porter service. Saved a lot of bag hassles. A bit of sun and blue sky to start but it all clouded up as we headed higher into the mountains.

More snow.

This section of the trip takes us to Myrdal and arrives at 11.15am, a four and three quarter hour trip through the countryside. Myrdal is 866 metres above sea level (Oslo) so it is a steady upward journey, some great scenery and snowy landscapes.

Some of the vast snowy landscape on the way to Myrdal.
Railway station at Finse.

The highest point on the line is at Finse which is 1,222 metres above sea level. Finse is actually the highest railway station in northern Europe, it is really a ski resort. So the line rises and falls along the way.

The track near Finse, a bit of snow and ice.
Our train from Oslo at the Myrdal station.

Myrdal is where we got off the train, it would continue along the main line to Bergen. We had a two hour stop over here awaiting the train to Flam on a different line. The train is called the ‘Flamsbana’. The train journey from Myrdal down to Flam on the Auriandsfjorden (I’ll call it ‘A’ next time) and has been included in a list of the ten great train journeys in the world. ‘A’ is a branch of Norway’s longest Fjord, the Sognefjord.

From the Myrdal train station. No snow in summer when this is all green.

This is where we had to get out our tickets for the Flam train trip and show them to the conductress who strolled through the cabin calling out ‘tickets’. Just prior to this Allthego had checked the tickets and found out that the Brown home computer had put the wrong date on them! Sunday 16th February, not Thursday 6th March. This was a potential problem. A bit of talking got us through ok, no drama, might have been different if the train had been full of bodies. It was only about a third full for the trip. Just got to triple check dates in future not just the times!

Kjosfossen waterfall all 225m of it, roaring in early Spring!

It takes 45 minutes for the train to descend 866 metres over approximately 20 km.

Flam valley
Flam valley.
River through Flam Valley.

We passed through upwards of 20 tunnels, some corkscrew ones, that were built in the 1920s. A great scenic trip with waterfalls through the Flam Valley, beside the river.

Panorama of the Fretheim Hotel complex.

Arrived at the little township of Flam at 4pm and booked into the Fretheim Hotel for our 2 night stay and from where the story will pick up next time.

Oslo, going, going

Our last day in Oslo has reverted back to some sunshine and blue sky. Still a fair bit of cloud. We set off today for a group of three museums way out of town on the fjord shores. Have to catch a local bus to get there, it takes a while and a bit of walking to find the bus stop. Finally, we are on our way and it takes about thirty minutes through the suburbs.

The Kon Tiki

The first is the Kon Tiki museum that records the work of Thor Heyerdahl. He sought to prove that man could have sailed from South America to the Pacific Islands on rafts to establish civilisations of the same ilk as in South America. The success of the Kon Tiki journey certainly established that it could be done. Today, however, there seems to be evidence that the Polynesians came from the north east rather than South America, it is not proven though and doubts remain as to the source of the Pacific populations.

Map of the Kon Tiki journey

Later Heyerdahl did the same sort of trip on Ra across the Atlantic to prove that man could have sailed from southern Europe on rafts to introduce Egyptian ideas to the Mayan populations in South America. Again there is no conclusive proof. For all his work Thor Heyerdahl has his place in Norwegian history.

Across the road is the Fram Museum. It is here that the original Fram is securely preserved. The Fram was the ship used by Nansen and Amundsen on their polar explorations. Nansen in the north and Amundsen in the south.

The Fram in ice on the north pole expedition.

Considerable space is given over in the museum to the race between Amundsen and Scott (the English team) to be the first to reach the South Pole. But it is the Fram that dominates the museum space, an amazing vessel.

The Fram on display at the Fram Museum.
Amundson’s team for the south pole expedition outside the Fram Museum looking out to sea.

Lastly, we moved on to the Maritime Museum which records hundreds of years of Norwegian sea faring. Of interest to us though were some pieces of old Viking boats and the story of how these are being restored. A couple of pieces had been moved here from the Viking Museum which is undergoing a multi year restoration. Some amazing sights here in this museum.

Old Norwegian dugout canoe.

This old canoe is the oldest boat ever found in Norway, some 2,200 years old. The tools are likely to be the sort of items used to make it.

Akershus Fortress frim the shore near the Fram Museum.

Late in the afternoon we headed back on the bus for the city, arriving without any drama. We had a treat lined up to attend the Oslo Opera House to see the ballet of Don Quixote. Quite an enjoyable show to round out our trip to Oslo.

At the Opera House.
Cast of Don Quixote on stage.

We head off early in the morning on the Bergen train, stopping at Myrdal to change trains for Flam. More of that next time.

Oslo on the go

We had three days in Oslo ahead of moving over to Bergen to catch the cruise up the Norwegian coast. The weather forecast for Oslo was not great, rainy, cloudy periods with not much sun. Typical early Spring weather, despite a less than average snowfall through Winter there was still icy snow laying around the streets and parks.

‘Foodery’ in the old concourse of the Oslo Central Station, our hotel opened onto this area.
Our room at the Oslo hotel.

Our room in the hotel was quite small, but comfortable. Not much space for luggage! Breakfast was included so we started the day with a healthy alternative. Allthego occasionally lapsed and finished off with bacon and eggs.

Healthy breakfast at the hotel, followed by some bacon and egg for protein

We were surprised when we woke to sunny, blue skies with some high cloud. The chap at the Visitors Centre advised us to take advantage of it and head up the mountain to the Holmenkollen Ski Fields. Take the train to the end of the line and walk back down the hill to the Centre. So we did. Some great views of ski runs in the back woods.

Skier on a Holmenkollen ski run in the backwoods.
Ski run and frozen lake in backwoods.

The main objective here was to look at the Ski Museum. Holmenkollen was the location of the 1952 Olympics and also held a number of World Championships. An interesting centre with plenty of old gear. Also some historical bits from the Norwegian polar explorers Nantzen and Amundson. Allthego, thought he saw an old pair of his 1970s Blizzard brand skis on display. Blizzards are not hard to forget, but maybe they weren’t! We both had a go on a cross country race simulator, the two other AI contestants beat us easily.

Homealone doing a cross country race against two on screen opponents, came last!

We then caught the lift to the top of the Ski Jump. Quite a height, Slobro hid in the back pack and Homealone wished she was! There were some great views from the top and looking down the ski jump was a little nerve wrecking. Must be quite an experience descending the run and jumping into thin air about half way down before landing on the run at the bottom!

Elevator nearing the top of the Jump.
One of the views from the top of the Ski Jump.
Looking down the Holmenkollen Ski Jump from the top (of course!).

We made our way further down from Holmenkollen to the railway station to catch the train back to the city. Along the way we stopped off at the Vigeland Sculpture Park. Vigeland was a famous sculptor from the early to mid 20 century. The City Council have put a lot of his sculptures up in this park. He seemed to have a strong focus on the human body and its various appendages. Enough said. All quite interesting but we needed to head off to get back to the hotel before dark.

A sculpture (one of many) in the Vigeland Sculpture Park.

The next couple of days we aimed to stay in the city for the local sights.