If old towns could talk.

It is not all just river, grapes and wine on this trip. The towns along the way have their own treasures from history to showcase the river cruiser. They have stories to tell about past struggles and glories.

The old 12th century fort on one of the two hills in Lamego. The first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, was crowned here in 1143.

Many of these treasures are old churches that are generally the dominant building in the town. There is a rich Roman Catholic tradition in Spain. All the churches we have seen have been highly decorated. Some of the interiors have seen better days, upkeep and maintenance of these mostly gothic structures is becoming a problem.

We went off on a side trip from Regua to the town of Lamego to see this famous old church and shrine. It is known as ‘our Lady of Remedies’

The fountain is on a platform below the church. The fountain is believed to have healing powers for those who drink of it, maybe a splash is ok these days. Allthego tried a quick gulp and splash. Didn’t seem to cure his ills. Then again it is sometimes said that it is faith that is important for it to work and that it takes time, not simply that the water or whatever has mysterious powers.

Interior of the church, dedicated to Mary and hence ‘Lady of Remedies’ references.
Looking back up at the church. There are about 650 steps from the Church down the hill to the town below. After each bank of steps there is a platform with a blue tile panoramic interpretive scene from the Bible. I later learned that these were a ‘stations of the cross’ walk.
After the walk down the steps one could look back up and see each of the landings and tile murals. We retired to a wine cellar after the walk down and tried the local champagne, or more correctly ‘sparkly’.
Back at the Regua dock.
On some of the evenings we had entertainers come on board from the towns and perform local cultural classics. This chap was the spokesman for, as I recall it, an eight piece folk group. They put on quite an energetic performance.

We later stopped for two nights in the town of Pinhao, this town is apparently in one of the Douro’s sweet spots for grapes and wines.

Pinhao from the other side of the river, MS Estrela is docked awaiting our return from a vineyard tour.

Pinhao is famous for its old railway station. The railway came along the Douro Valley in the late 1800s, reaching Pinhao in 1880, when this station was built. Around the walls of the station are blue tiled murals of life from those late 1800s through the first half of the twentieth century before the damming of the river.

On the sundeck cruising down the Douro.
From the sundeck approaching a dam and lock.
Some more riverside scenery.
The MS Estrela lounge.
Another entertainment night, amazing harp player.
‘Moon River’ on the harp with voice. If you are a ‘Moon River’ tragic this is for you, at the end we all helped the guy with ‘Hallelujah’ to finish. It is 5 minutes but worth it!

Our last excursion away from the river was to Castelo Rodrigo, a hill top medieval village. There are great views over the plains and into Spain from the remnants of the palace atop the hill.

Gate into Castelo Rodrigo.
Streetscape

The old medieval church is a mixture of architectural styles over several hundred years. Quite a history of occupation.

Medieval church, note the pre Roman style squared entrance door. Beside it is the Roman rounded arched bell tower that was added later.
Inside the church the sanctuary area has Roman style rounded arches, pre 11th century.
Looking back the entrance has pointed Gothic arches from the late 12th to 16th century.
View of Palace wall ruins.
View from the Palace walls, I think Spain is away in the distance?

Back on the river we had our last night aboard moored at Vega de Terron. In the morning we left on coaches for Madrid, with a lunch stop over at Salamanca. It has been a great trip so far!

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About allthegobro

I am a retired accountant who does a bit of consulting work from time to time. Leanne and I enjoy travelling around seeing the world and we are now going to have some fun recording our experiences in this blog

Posted on October 6, 2025, in Portugal and Spain 2025. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.

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