Pender Bay

We left Derby with the aim of getting to the Broome Gateway CP in good time so as to make a quick trip into Broome to pick up some supplies. The CP is roughly 30km from Broome. The road down from Derby is fully sealed and passes through pretty flat grazing country.

Now to Broome

We had a little bit of excitement along the way with an unruly fire that was ravaging the country alongside the road.

Fire there?

We could see plumes of thick smoke from a way off. For some reason the road headed to where the fire was and this presented a bit of a dilemma as to whether one pulls over and lets it pass or do you battle on through the smoke etc.

Yes a fire

Plenty of cars and trucks were coming the other way so we ploughed on.

Fire break here between us and the flames.
Plenty of smoke too

Bit scary I tell you! Couldn’t see much in some places except the white centre line. Homealone took some great photos of the experience. Probably will choose to let the fire go by next time!

Out the other side OK. The sun behind all the smoke provided an eerie landscape.

Despite the fire we made it to camp in time to set up and make the gquick trip to Broome for the supplies. We had to pick up a few bottles of wine for the days ahead on the Dampier Peninsular. This can be easier said than done in the Kimberley region. Bottle shops are not open Sunday or Monday and when open don’t do so till Midday. And I think you can only buy two bottles without having to sign forms saying you are a bona fide traveller etc. The police can search the car and you need the receipt from the bottle shop to clear your name. All in the interest of restricting access to alcohol in the community. Probably a good idea.

Our destination is the yellow blob near Mercedes Cove.

It was only a one night stop at the CP and the next morning we set off up the Cape Leveque Road, which more or less runs up the centre of the Dampier Peninsular. It is only in the last 18 months that this road has been sealed all the way to the top. Apparently, it used to be a nightmare and took almost all day to do the full length. We had left about 10am and made it to Beagle Bay before lunch.

Beagle Bay is an indigenous community.

Beagle Bay, about 5km off the main road, is a popular stop with Nomads as you can top up with fuel and visit the Sacred Heart Church, the altar of which is made from Mother of Pearl shells. It was originally built by Pallotine monks and local aborigines in 1918, the bell tower was completed in 1920.

Sacred Heart Church, the major building in the small community.
The altar is decorated (almost made of) with pearl shell.

The Church has been renovated a couple of times since then and the bell tower was rebuilt after it collapsed in 2001.

We decided to skip lunch and head back onto the Cape Leveque Road and make for Pender Bay. After 20km we took the turnoff to Middle Lagoon, our destination is a subsequent turnoff off further along.

The track into Pender Bay Escape, this bit looks good!

All up an hour and 35km of very slow, corrugated, bumpy and sandy track. Mostly, a single lane bush lined track with limited passing points.

Campsite ‘G3’, water connected but not potable. And no power, continuing to rely on solar.
Early morning sunrise
Sunset, trucks awaiting their boats to come back.

We are camping for four nights at Pender Bay Escape on Native Title land, overlooking the Indian Ocean from cliff tops.

Sunrise

Our site faces east and the sun rises it seems from the waters of King Sound, across the tip of the Peninsular. Pretty good spot for feet up and a swim after the more hectic Gibb!

Love heart rock
Homealone (centre in pink) keeping an eye on the beach from our cliff top camp site.
The water was crystal clear and warm.

Allthego spent some time in an on site bath tub contemplating the view from our campsite. Homealone pondered this and thought that he should rename a previous blog entry ‘Soaking in the Kimberleys’, rather than ‘Sucking in the Kimberleys’. It has a much better ring to it, so he will do so at the next opportunity.

Soaking in the Kimberleys.

After four days it was hard to tear ourselves away from Pender Bay but we had to make tracks for Cygnet Bay at the tip of the Peninsular. We left at 8am to minimise the chances of meeting incoming vehicles, vans and boats along the narrow track.

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About allthegobro

I am a retired accountant who does a bit of consulting work from time to time. Leanne and I enjoy travelling around seeing the world and we are now going to have some fun recording our experiences in this blog

Posted on June 22, 2025, in Western Australia 2025. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.

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