Monthly Archives: April 2013
South from Canakkale
While in Canakkale we have stayed in a hotel right on the Dardanelles and have seen two magnificent sunsets.
We now head off south for Kusadasi and along the way one of our main stops is at Troy were Peter O’Toole held off Brad Pitt and the Spartans for nearly 10 years before the poor old Trojans fell for the big horse trick. Now seriously Troy is an interesting place. As an archaeological site it has seen better times and is currently undergoing renovation work on the facilities and the trails around the site. If you like a 10th Troy is being built on top off the previous 9 habitations. The Trojan Horse Troy is believed to be the 6th Troy. Troy is now inland someway, its port silted up and it has become a fertile plain, below the site of the old city.
Along the way we have had two industrial facility tours checking out a Turkish Carpet complex and a Leather Coat factory. Really interesting stops these were as we were convinced of the regional authenticity and originality of a whole range of carpets and leather coats. Hmmmm
A highlight was the stopover at Ephesus and it was surely the best Roman excavation we have come across. Simply mind-blowing in its size. Much of the site has been reconstructed like a jig saw puzzle because of earthquake damage. The Library complex is particularly impressive.
In Kusadasi we are in the Charisma Hotel overlooking the Aegean Sea with Samos, a Greek Island just across the bay.
Not a bad camping ground this, great beach front. Allthego has had a dive into the Aegean. The top 10 centimeters nice and warm, below that well it was just cold stuff. The hotel pool then called me…………….and that is where I must leave you dear readers for the time being.
Gallipoli
Well the last few days have been flat-out keeping me away from the keyboard until now.
We left Istanbul the day before ANZAC day and travelled down the Gallipoli peninsular for the Dawn service. This was an experience to say the least. We arrived at the Commemorative site around 9pm, after a bit of a walk from where the bus dropped us off. This is where the TV broadcast comes from. By this time all the seating on the grassed areas was taken. All the ‘young people’ lie here in their sleeping bags gazing up at the stars in the sky. The rest of us take seats in the stands. Now this might sound more pleasant than lying on the grass, but ahead of us was 8 or 9 hours of increasingly cold night air as the dawn approaches. Despite blankets and double layers it got a bit nippy and uncomfortable. The benches were a bit hard on the rear end.
The irony of all this is of course that nearly 100 years ago a whole pile of young Australians landed here and spent the next 9 months or so in far more horrifying conditions than we can ever imagine. Our complaints of cold seemed so insignificant. We can only thank our Turkish friends for keeping the place and memories so well-ordered.
There is a new Museum at Gallipoli, it opened in early April. It is a flash interactive type of set up. In telling the story it brings a strong Turkish perspective to the confrontation and makes one realise that the Turks suffered far greater losses than the combined Commonwealth forces did and also faced the same deprivations.
Following the dawn service we walked the 2km or so up to the Lone Pine Memorial and cemetery for the Australian ceremony at 10am. In getting up this ‘hill’ to Lone Pine from the shoreline Allthego and ‘Reality’ were almost Allbutgone. Lone Pine is the place where 2800 Australians were killed in an area about the size of a football field. Most of the ‘graves’ marked are symbolic as the bodies lie everywhere under our feet. What a walk. How tough it would have been 90 years ago!
After the services we returned to the bus and crossed the Dardanelles on the car ferry to Canakkale for a sleep. We had been allthego for about 36 hours and wondered why we were a bit tired and in need of shut-eye. We were all in good spirits though.
The following day we returned to visit various cemeteries on the Peninsular, including the impressive Turkish memorial.

The lone pine at the Lone Pine Memorial and cemetery. In this small area 2800 Australians died ripping into the Turks in hand to hand combat in the trenches that lay across this hilltop area.
The crowd was largely gone but the ANZACs remained behind to await another influx in a years time.
Istanbul
We are now ensconced in Istanbul in the Taksim area. This is the more modern side of the Golden Horn compared with the old side which is where the big Mosques, Grand Bazaar etc are located. Have spent our time so far just wandering around the place on and off the metro tram and funicular. Istanbul also has the worlds second oldest underground which opened in the 1860s, might have 1870s (it is pretty short but runs up the hill from the Golden Horn for a few hundred metres).
The city is very colourful at the moment, April is Tulip month and blossoms are all over the place. Have looked through part of the Archeological Museum, very focussed on the Roman period with much of its material having been collected in the late 1800s. It seems there were sarcophagus everywhere around these parts just waiting to be picked up and put in Museums. Later we went for a short round trip cruise on a local ferry up and down the Bosphorus.
On the other side of the old city in Topacki area is the 1453 Siege of Constantinople Museum. Now this was pretty good. It is one of those panorama displays. One stands in the middle surrounded by a circular painting, leading up to the painting though is open area with all sorts of scenery etc that merge in with the painting, it gives it depth. The difference with this Panorama is that there is also a sky dome over it which also merges in with the painting. You are right in the thick of the action it seems. There is some accompanying sound effects. The attached picture depicts one small segment of the scene.
Today we were out at the Princes Islands. Caught one of the public ferries out across the Mammara sea. It is about a one hour trip to the group of 4 Islands. The ferry stops at each one. We went ashore at the last stop, can’t spell the island’s name now! These Islands were a bit of a playground for the idle rich in 1920s/30s. Trotsky was exiled here by Stalin.
The ferry back from Princes Islands was running a bit late on the way back so we walked into our next tour briefing half hour late. The tour takes off tomorrow with a day around Istanbul and then onto Gallipoli for Anzac Day and then on around parts of Turkey.
Balagan returns home
Balagan did not continue to Istanbul with us choosing to return home with his fellow pilgrims to Brisbane. Balagan first appeared with us when we were in Galilee, having risen from a pile of wool Leanne had brought with her from Australia at the last moment following a suggestion from Allthego.
At first he was simply known as the Pilgrim Gnome, a lonely soul looking for friends and companions on the trip. Well he soon had a few friends and began to appear in photos in some unlikely places and poses. If the tour had been a little longer he might have even become a bit of a show off. You might be wondering what Balagan means? It is Hebrew for something like a ‘spot of trouble’. You can have ‘ big Balagans’ and ‘little Balagans’. Our Balagan was just a nice little guy with the wrong name!
So here are some ‘Best of Balagan’ moments…………..
Back in Tel Aviv and allthego to Istanbul
We are almost about to farewell Israel. The last couple of days have been a bit hectic. A number of highlights include the visit to the Dome of the Rock, The Garden Tomb (there are apparently a good number of scholars who do not believe that this is the place of the crucifixion and burial……..The Church of the Holy Sepulchre being the preferred location….but this was a much more calming place than the church location), The Holocaust Museum, a quick look-see at the Dead Sea Scrolls and very quick pass by the Herod exhibition at the Israeli Museum.

The Dome of the Rock sits atop Temple Mount. A common misconception is that it is a mosque, no it is a Muslim shrine to the place where they believe Mohammed ascended to heaven. The Jews believe it is where Abraham brought Isaac to be sacrificed. This was also the location of the 2nd Jewish Temple destroyed by the Romans. It is where they believe the 3rd Temple will be built sometime. Hence all the hassles up here.
About half our tour members are leaving to return home to Australia and the rest of us our ensconced in a hotel not far from the Tel Aviv airport awaiting onward flights in the early hours tomorrow.You will next hear from Allthego when in Istanbul.
Allthego in Jerusalem
It was off to Bethlehem today again crossing into the Palestinian Authority and having to change guides for a few hours. First port of call was the Shepard’s Fields. This is an area of Bethlehem where a church has been established near some excavated caves that are suggested could have been those occupied by the Shepherds, to whom the impending birth of Jesus was announced. Well, wherever the truth lies the site and Church are a moving experience and convey the feeling of that moment. This is in contrast to the Church of the Nativity which was crowded and very heavy on symbolism. One wonders if there was more time to be had in these places without the pressure to move that a different impression might be gained.

Leanne in the light and waiting in the queue to get into the grotto at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.
From here we headed back towards Jerusalem reclaimed our guide and headed off to the Genesis experience. This establishment sits on the way to the Dead Sea overlooking a fairly remote region and then across the Jordan Valley to Jordan. Abraham met us at his tent and invited us in for some hospitality. Now Abraham is actually an Australian (Jewish) with a fairly strong Aussie accent. In welcoming us he in a story telling style told us Abrahams journey from Ur to Canaan. It was quite entertaining and thoughtful. Food was great too. Camel rides for everyone as well for full measure.
Back in Jerusalem for a free day and I have caught up on this blog. Internet is lousy in the rooms so Leanne and I are sitting in a bar area this evening listening to the melodic tones of the piano whilst I tap away at the computer. Today was a long walk around New Jerusalem. This is outside the city walls and is the area that was developed in the early part of the 20th century when the British ran the place. This was a good contrast to our previous days of roaming the old world areas.
Jerusalem
Its taken a while to get here and this is the run down to the end of the Israel adventure. In six days we head off to Turkey and others in our party go off to other parts of Europe or return home to Australia. Jerusalem is not a big city as such but it packs a lot in. This is a snippet of our first couple of days. Started out at the Mt of Olives, descended down the hill to the Garden of Gethsemane and onto the Eastern Gate of the City. Wandered around the Muslim section of the city which contains the Via Delorosa, the path through the city which tradition has Jesus tracing to the Crucifixion. Some of these Stations of the Cross have historical basis and others are, well you know, somewhat problematical.

Walking down from the Mt of Olives you eventually reach the Eastern Gate to Jerusalem. This is the 16th Century Gate and is now a 21st Century traffic nightmare to get in.
We visit the Church of the Holy Sepulcu (spelling ? its late at night!) and see the place where tradition and perhaps historical evidence places the crucifixion of Jesus. Well I feel it’s a bit over the top for the Protestant branch………….but the Catholic and Orthodox traditions of eastern Europe and Eurasia place great belief and faith in these places and the traditions that go with them.

This is the main fresco depicting the Last Supper in the Church of the Holy Sepulcu (this has not been spelt right but its late at night!), which marks the place where tradition places the Crucifixion of Jesus.
Down at the Western Wall we see some great contrasts of tradition and the modern presence of the Israel State, a few days before Israel’s Independence day and Memorial Day.
Something more tomorrow no doubt!
Jerusalem at last
We are now catching up this blog and this is the last day travelling to Jerusalem. We headed off a bit early from the Dead Sea but there is one last wander along the beach in the early morning to catch sunrise. Now, whilst I am sure that there were just ordinary folk like me down there at 6 or so in the morning there were also a few egos bursting out. A couple of couples giving themselves a mud rub down before washing it off (interesting sight this) and others sort of strutting around in the water catching the early morning rays of the sun. Probably all very beneficial for the soul and ailments.
The Dead Sea is actually going to rise significantly over the next little while, it is currently at a quite low-level. Some resorts which were built on the shoreline 20 years ago are now several hundred metres back from it. Now this is not due to global warming. Israel is moving quickly towards relying on desalination for its water requirements rather than drawing it from the Sea of Galilee. Consequently, water needs to be released from the Sea (which is currently quite high) and let flow down the Jordan River into the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is expected to rise by some 20 metres because of this. It will inundate infrastructure and necessitate the relocation of some of the newer hotels that have been built close to the current shoreline. There may also be some impact on the mineral content and salinity of the water.
Reality gets me back to breakfast and then the bus to Jerusalem with stops at a place called Ein Gedir, then Qumran to see the location of the cave system where the Dead Sea scrolls were found, and finally Jericho before winding up the road to Jerusalem.
Ein Gider is a nature reserve based around some steep gullies rising up from near the shore of the Dead Sea. Animal life ‘abounds’ in this area and the gullies are green and cool with waterfalls and pools. Israel’s animal ‘mascot’ is the Ibex, a deer like animal that blends very neatly into the rocky landscape. It is relatively common here. Fortunately, we were able to see a small group of these up on the slopes.

One of the many waterfalls, there were bigger ones, along the path which winded up a gully to reach David’s waterfall at the top. It was a bit of a steep walk.
Jericho sits within the control of the Palestinian Authority so we had to go through a check point and change guides for a short tour of the Jericho Tel. Jericho is arguably one of the oldest cities in the world dating back 7-8 BCE. We lunch at the Temptation restaurant which monopolises a great location below the mountain and wilderness area where Jesus was tempted by the devil. Hence the name Temptation Mountain. Leanne was disappointed that we didn’t have the time to go up the cable car to the mountain top to get a real good view of the area.
Following lunch it was back to the bus and on to Jerusalem which we reached late in the afternoon of 12 April.
Lively time at the Dead Sea
The day at the Dead Sea was a relatively subdued affair compared to the last few days. The morning was given over to a visit to Masada where the remnant Jewish forces endeavoured to hold the Fortress Herod the Great had built against the Romans. In the end the they effectively drew lots and killed themselves rather than surrender or be conquered by the Romans and enslaved. The ascent of Masada is by way of a cable car, although there is a twisting path up the mountain. Now Leanne and a few others in our party are not greatly enamoured by these sort of trips so it was great relief all round when we reached the top for our look around the site. Our guide David explained the historical background to the Masada event and the impact it has on Jewish thinking to this day. It is a symbol for never surrendering in the face of today’s enemies. Peter O’ Toole stared in a movie based on the Masada story and apparently there is a 4 part mini-series on the way sometime.

Leanne having gone up in the cable car and got across the ledge pathway to the top of Masada, somewhat relieved

On this edge of Masada Herod the Great built his palace, never to occupy it. Later the remnants of Jewish forces took their own lives rather than surrender to the Romans. A Peter O’Toole movie………….
Back at the Dead Sea for the afternoon a numbered of us went for a ‘swim’ at a nearby beach. Well this was a bit of an experience bobbing up and down like corks in a lake.
We leave tommorrow for Jerusalem and I am still catching up on this blog.
Back to Israel and the Dead Sea
Well today (physically a couple of days ago as I catch up on the blog………….we are here in Jerusalem) we head back into Israel and cross the border at Aqaba on the Red Sea , about an hour and a half from Petra, and then head up towards the Dead Sea. Border crossing went a bit quicker this time around and we set off in good time.
First port of call today was Timna Park which was the centre of copper mining in ancient times, although revived briefly during the 1960/70s. This is a desert landscape park and has as one of its attractions a replica of the Tabernacle carried around by Moses and his gang in the wilderness for 40 years. The replica has been constructed from interpretations of measurements contained in the Bible. It is of a reasonable size and an interesting structure apparently it is or was designed to be pulled apart to ease the issue of carrying it around. Still I would not like to be one of those who hulked it around. One can make what one wants to of this replica but it is an imposing structure on the landscape.
Leaving Timna Park for Be’er Sheva we travelled through the Negrev desert region for kilometre after kilometre past wide expanses of brown, almost black, grey, white and green tinged lunar like landscapes. Not much evidence of water in these parts. Be’er Sheva was were in 1917 the famous Charge of the Light Brigade (the Australian Light Horse regiment) took place against the Turkish army. This was apparently a turning point in this part of WW1 as the victory at Be’er Sheva allowed the Commonwealth forces to move further north into the then Palestinian territory controlled by the Turks. The British then achieved administrative control over this southern part of the middle east which it was to retain until Israeli independence in 1948.
Coming into Be’er Sheva we passed by the plain where the Charge took place, now surrounded by scattered settlement before the city proper starts. In the city we stopped at the Park of the Australian Soldier which connects the Australian contribution to the victory at Be’er Sheva with the Israeli people. Later we moved on to the British Cemetery which contains the graves of the Commonwealth forces who died in this theatre of the Palestinian conflict in WW1. This was a moving experience, particularly as there were 2 (?3) members of our party who had relatives who fought here.

Headstones in the British Cemetery at Be’er Sheva containing graves of Australian soldiers who died in the Charge of the Light Brigade and later actions near here.
We then headed off to the Dead Sea.
Petra

The Treasury at Petra is carved out of the rock face. It is 30 metres wide and 43 metres high and dwarfs tourists that mingle with camels and donkeys at its base.
Here we are at Petra and this is a quite amazing place. The Romans have been here to. They’ve been everywhere it seems and have left their mark. You can read all about Petra on the internet and in magazines but when you first glance at The Treasury coming out of the Siq after a 1 km walk down a narrow canyon it is really something different. Indiana Jones found a good set for his film!
Whilst Leanne and a few others lounged around the main part of the site R climbed out of the gorge, with a group of co venturers, to The Monastery up along a path with around 800 steps carved into the side of the cliffs. This is one of those ‘bucket list’ things people do.
We are staying in a neat village complex overlooking a valley with craggy peaks. There is also a contrast in life with small children trying to flog postcards and other trinkets to the tourists, young men touting ‘silver’ bangles aggressively to passersby and older more laid back and wily merchants peddling all manner of wares.
Pictures speak louder than words in this part of the world.
Amman and on we go
It was a long day getting here punctuated at the end by a meal in the Tawaheen Al-Hawa restaurant somewhere in the western side of Amman. This was a great establishment and we had what could be described as a Jordanian BBQ with salads, homus etc seated around a low circular table on comfy lounges. Around us were groups of locals taking it all in as well, a good number of the women were sucking on some pipes of sorts….need to find out what these actually are….off to the hotel and bed. A 5.30am wake up call awaits……..
The first stop was at the Amman Citadel, this is one of Amman’s oldest known places. It dates back 7000 years by some estimates. It has been occupied by all comers, including of course the Romans who built a temple to Hercules along with all the other typical Roman stuff…theatre, colonnades. We also have a mosque and other building reflecting the muslim occupation. The site was flattened by the big earthquake in the mid 8th century.
Back on board we headed for the Jordan river and the site thought to be where John baptised Jesus. The river here is a real contrast with its headwaters. Here it is a muddy channel in pretty sparse low-lying land probably about 5 metres across. We are on its east bank and across the way on the Israeli side is a site for full immersion baptismal gatherings of all sorts. Before coming to the river there is archaeological evidence of the presence of 3 ‘churches’ built atop each other which provides evidence of the importance of the site and the thinking that this was where Jesus may have been baptised.

Footings of the first church above which 2 others were built near where it is thought John baptised Jesus in the Jordan.
We now head back into the mountain region for Mt Nebo where Moses saw the Promised Land. By this time we had encountered a sand storm of sorts which substantially reduced visibility. There is a Franciscan Church complex being built atop Mt Nebo which overlays a much older church site. Moses is thought to be buried somewhere in the valleys below and not atop the mountain.
Much driving south sees us reach Petra in the early evening.
Golan Heights and on to Amman in Jordan
I have slipped a day behind and this is a bit of a catch up from yesterday as well. We left the Sea of Galilee for a trip into the top corner of Israel. This is the area that was taken by Israel in the 6 day war from Syria. The Golan Heights, with Mt Hermon as a back drop across the valley. There was remnants of snow on the mountain. As an aside, Mt Hermon is suggested as a place where Jesus may have been transfigured, no proof of course. Half of Mt Hermon is Syrian territory and the other half Israeli. Our guide gave us a run down on the various wars Israel has fought with the Arabs over the years and the territorial ‘gains ‘ and ‘losses’ arising from each. It was quite impassioned and at times personal account (he is actually a member of the reserves forces). Looking down from the Golan Heights into both Lebanon and Syria left one in awe of the issues involved in the ongoing war of words and conflict. They are somewhat intractable problems it seems.
Prior to reaching the Golan Heights we stopped in at the Tel Dan which is an ancient fortress site with many layers of inhabitation. One of the most significant sites here is the Canaanite gate which has been dated back to Circa 2700 BCE, which was the time Abraham was wandering through this area, he may have actually passed by here and entered the town through this gate. The Tel is situated on one of the ancient cross roads of the time. The Gate is at the base of the Tel and there are other gates higher up the hill built at later times of occupation. The Tel is also the area that contains one of the sources of the Jordan River. We walked around here and followed the course of the stream to the pool seen in the attached photo. It was a very peaceful area.
From here we moved on to Caesarea Philippi an ancient Roman town built by one of Herod’s sons (check this !) which has long disappeared. The area we visited once was occupied by a Roman temple complex for the god Pan, various remnants of this remain. Pan was the god of the underworld and what we might call ‘wild living’, ‘party animals’ etc. There is a grotto here that would have been at the back of the temple and which was referred to as the Gates of Hades. This site is particularly significant in the Jesus story because it was here that Jesus charged Peter (means ‘rock’) as the rock on which he would build the church …………. and the Gates of Hades will not overcome it. The reference to Gates of Hades actually places Jesus and Peter at this spot, but also can refer to the Pan lifestyle being a potential threat to the Church which will be overcome.
Moving on it is Sunday and we have arrived in Amman after spending time at Bet She’an, a Roman city which was flattened by an earthquake and then subsequently covered over. It has been subject to ongoing excavation since the 1960s. It is really quite a spectacular site covering a large area. Pictures speak louder than words about this place. It is linked to the Israelite story because it was on the walls of Bet She’an that King Saul’s body was hung.
The border crossing was a quite involved process of checking and cross checking, particularly on the Jordanian side, and took over an hour to complete before we headed off on the two hour drive to Amman.
Tomorrow we head to Petra.
Nazareth notes
Nazareth has been around for a long time. Today, it is a city with an Arab population, many of whom are Christians as opposed to being muslims, and a minority Jewish population. It is a bit of a melting pot which has largely lost its rural roots. Today we travelled for about 45 minutes to reach Nazareth and visited the Nazareth Village project.
Now this project is a bit like the Jondaryan Woolshed concept. But in a setting right in the middle of Nazareth; houses, apartments and shops hemming it in. It is a re-creation of a first century Nazareth Village environment. Hillside farm terraces, olive trees, grape arbors, donkeys, goats and a flock of sheep roam the land. There is a fully reconstructed village including homes, shops, a synagogue and a working olive press. In clearing the land for the village project a first century grape press was also revealed having been carved into the rock surface below where the garden terraces would have been and are now reconstructed. The objective of the Project is to introduce us to the lifestyle of villagers at the time of Jesus and the impact this culture had on his teaching. I think it succeeds and is well worth the visit.
Later we visited the Church of the Annunciation which sits on the site (Mary’s house) which has traditionally been associated with the visitation of the Angel Gabriel to tell Mary she was pregnant with Jesus. To what extent this site is it or not seems when you visit the place to be a bit irrelevant compared to the feelings and imagery conjured up by just being there.

The Church of The Annunciation and its courtyard area is filled with mosaics of representations of The Virgin Mary and Jesus from around the world. Whilst it is the same subject the representations are all different and reflect the culture of the country. This is the Australian one which is one of the few that are actually inside the Church.
We returned mid afternoon to the hotel and to get ready to go up the Golan Heights tomorrow and, amongst other things, overlook the Syrian border.
Walking on sunshine
We have had a wonderful day today doing what I call ‘walking on sunshine’ . We have spent the day travelling up and down that part of the shores of the Sea of Galilee where all the evidence (archaeological, biblical and geographic) points to the historical Jesus and his disciples living and proclaiming their message to the local population. One of the overwhelming understandings gained is the small geographical area within which it all took place. The Beatitudes sermon, feeding the 5000, his appearance to the disciples on the Seas shore after the resurrection and so on all took place in this tight little space. It was from this area that Christianity then spread out through the world.
The day started with a visit to the museum that holds the fishing boat found in the mud of the Sea dating back to the time of Jesus. From there we went in our own boat onto the Sea and looked towards the shore in much the same way as they did 2000 years ago. We had a short Communion service on board. Returning to land we then visited the mountain (a big hill) where the Beatitudes sermon was arguably delivered, if not there then not far away. On then to the site of the multiplication of the 2 fish and 5 loaves, followed by the shoreline area where Jesus most likely appeared to the disciples after the resurrection. Finally, Capernaum and Peter’s house, if not actually his then one dating about the same time. Some extensive archaeological evidence supports this conclusion. It was from the fishing village of Capernaum that Jesus early ministry was based.
We returned a little weary to the hotel but having experienced a rewarding day of connecting ‘stories’ to their locations and thereby enhancing understanding.
Off tomorrow to Nazareth.





















































